You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.    As I understood your
idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
> start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
> and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
> temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
> be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
> soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
> degenerate.
>
> I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
> the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
> so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
> your good looks or intentions.
>
> Hakan
>
>
> At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> >On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> > > length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> > > back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> > > and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
> > > the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
> >
> >This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
> >have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
> >tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
> >capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
> >heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.
>
>
>
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>

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