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Article Title:
==============

How I Built a Kayak

Article Description:
====================

Nowadays, most kayaks come from big machines, crews, and an 
assembly line.  However, the roots of kayak building are DIY 
(do it yourself).  With modern materials the options available 
to do it yourself builders have expanded.  You can build "skin 
on frame," wood strip, plywood, fiberglass, or plastic.  You 
can build a cedar strip work of art, you're afraid to get wet, 
or a kayak so ugly you don't have to worry about theft.


Additional Article Information:
===============================

1178 Words; formatted to 65 Characters per Line
Distribution Date and Time: 2006-06-06 17:23:00

Written By:     Lyle Wilkinson
Copyright:      2006
Contact Email:  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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How I Built a Kayak
Copyright © 2006 Lyle Wilkinson
Do It Yourself Kayak
http://www.diykayak.com



Nowadays, most kayaks come from big machines, crews, and an
assembly line.  However, the roots of kayak building are DIY (do
it yourself).  With modern materials the options available to do
it yourself builders have expanded.  You can build "skin on
frame," wood strip, plywood, fiberglass, or plastic.  You can
build a cedar strip work of art, you're afraid to get wet, or a
kayak so ugly you don't have to worry about theft.


Background

In the summer of 2005, I bought a dealer demo Perception Sonoma
13.5 and a used Honda Element.  After 18,000 miles and paddles in
Arizona, Ontario, Saskatchewan and British Columbia it was time
to go home.  Freight for the kayak back to Hawaii was more than
$300 with packing.  I decided to leave the Sonoma on Vancouver
Island and buy or build a kayak on Maui.

As author of DIY Portfolio Management, I was tilting toward a DIY
(do it yourself) home built kayak.


Goal

Just before I left Nanaimo, on Vancouver Island, I took a rolling
class from Alberni Outpost.  I couldn't do it, couldn't roll. 
I needed a roll practice kayak.


Design

To roll, I figured the deck should be round.  To fit the limits
of my workspace the kayak had to be short.  Short kayaks are wide
for initial stability.  The short kayaks I'd seen had flattish
bottoms and lots of rocker.   The design used two 4'x8' sheets
of EPS for a kayak 90" long and 25" wide.

I read and was inspired by Chris Kulczycki's The New Kayak Shop.
 Although Mr. Kunczycki likes marine plywood, Hawaiian marine
craft and supplies focus on foam and fiberglass.  The
construction plan was modified from the plywood/epoxy method,
substituting 1" EPS for 4mm marine plywood.  The hull has 4oz
cloth on the inside and 10oz on the outside.  The front deck has
4oz cloth on both inside and outside.


Workspace

My wife, 1 or 2 grandchildren, and I live in a 900 sq. ft. condo
with a 300 sq. ft. yard.  I don't expect much workshop sanctity.
 Our family picnic table was my kayak workbench.

Working outside, ventilation was never a problem.  Wind, dust,
leaves, insects, birds, chameleons, noise restrictions, sunlight,
proximity to living quarters all impacted the build.  Wind broke
the EPS foam before I got started.  Dust and leaves fell on the
wet epoxy.  A big, black Carpenter Bee burrowed into the EPS. 
Birds were always chirping and chameleons entertained me from the
fence.  I used hand tools whenever I could, to prevent noise
fines from the condo association.  Sometimes I had to slather on
the SPF and wipe sweat out of my eyes.  Mrs. was constantly after
me about EPS balls and glass threads attracted to her fancy
Indich carpet.  Even without a shop, you can build a kayak.


Credentials

I'm cheap.  I'm retired.  The first time I was in a 'sit in'
kayak was 7/10/05.  I fiber-glassed an 8' foam KOOL sailboat 30
years ago.  If I can build a foam/fiberglass kayak, chances are
good you can too.


Cost

Total cost was around $400.  Sometimes the build seemed more like
a job than a hobby.  The build consumed 100 to 200 hours; at $10
per hour, it would have been a lot less expensive to buy.

The big money went for EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) foam ($35),
fiberglass cloth ($97), and epoxy ($97).  Other expenditures
included consumable supplies and tools. The $400 total doesn't
include cost of tools that are still useful or of some materials
left over.  Supplies consumed include fittings, acetone, brushes,
spreaders, thickeners, and paint.  Other purchases include
minicell foam, shock cord, and nylon webbings.  The EPS,
fiberglass and epoxy were all available on Maui, but minicell
foam, shock cord, and nylon webbing were ordered online.


Hull

Construction borrowed from the 'stitch and glue' plywood
method, but there was no stitching.  The Kayak One method was
more 'clamp and glue.'  In retrospect, the hull build would
have been less stressful if I'd used section frames as a female
mold.  The section frames would have held pieces in place, in
correct alignment while the thickened epoxy glue set.


Deck

The deck was a challenge.  The compound curves required lots of
cutting, lots of patching, lots of shaping, lots of clamps, lots
of time, and lots of patience.  I'm still not happy with the
quality of the finished product.   For Kayak 2, I'll spend more
time on design and eliminate compound curves, or use a different
material for the deck


Cockpit

Cockpit construction went smoothly, but it sucked up quite a few
hours.  The cockpit rim core was a drywall corner bead, trimmed
and scored to get the basic shape.  The corner bead was covered
with layers of fiberglass.  I started with 2 layers of 4 oz. and
a 6 oz 2" tape.  Later I added a layer of 10 oz. that wrapped
from 4" under cockpit to the outside tip of the rim.

Overall I'm happy with the cockpit rim.  It looks okay and seems
strong enough.  I wish I'd studied more rim shapes and avoided a
flat spot in my rim.  I joined a back big semi circle to a small
front semi circle with straight lines.  I should have used lines
that curved out.  I'm not getting a good seal in the mid section
of the flat part.


Deck Hull Join

This was the most exiting, most stressful, most second guessed
part of the build.  Too late I discovered alignment of the
deck/hull seam was off.  The thickened epoxy glue and clamps were
all in place by the time I had a chance to step back and see
where I was.  Luckily it wasn't off enough to require major
surgery.  The final product is not as symmetrical as it could
be.


Fitting Out

Sea touring style shock cord deck rigging was installed on both
the bow and stern decks.  Bow and stern carry handles were
fabricated by wrapping polyethylene tubing with 1" nylon
webbing.  The cockpit was padded out with a combination of
fiberglass wrapped EPS and minicell foam.


Performance

Kayak 1 floats, what a relief.

I was able to squeeze a little more length out of the 8' foot
EPS than I planned.  The kayak is 97.5" long and 24.5" wide. 
It weights 32 pounds, with deck rigging, knee braces, and a seat.
 From far it looks okay, and up close it is obviously home made.

It is easy to turn, especially without its skeg.  It goes
straight, especially with the skeg.  It is not nearly as fast as
the Perception Sonoma, 2" wider and 5.5' feet shorter.  It has
at least as much initially stability as the Sonoma.  So far I
haven't been able to do a re-entry from a wet exit, as the stern
sinks.  Because of all the fiberglass encapsulated EPS, it
floats, even with the cockpit full to the rim with water.

I haven't learned to roll yet.

I can't wait to start on Kayak 2.  I think it will be longer and
narrower.

Check out http://www.diykayak.com for pictures and details.





---------------------------------------------------------------------
Lyle Wilkinson, investor, trader, author, MBA, kayak builder
Helps individuals learn to self direct their stock portfolios.
Book, e-book, kayak, PowerPoint "DIY Portfolio Management"
http://www.diykayak.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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