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Article Title:
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Guided Bear Tours: Quest for Grizzlies

Article Description:
====================

Sitting on a patch of grass beside Dr. Mike Gibeau, one of
Canada's pre-eminent carnivore specialists, I was swept by his
excitement. Scanning with my binoculars, I sighted the first
grizzly bear I had ever seen in the wild. 


Additional Article Information:
===============================

1235 Words; formatted to 65 Characters per Line
Distribution Date and Time: 2007-02-05 11:00:00

Written By:     Travel Alberta
Copyright:      2007, All Rights Reserved
Contact Email:  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Guided Bear Tours: Quest for Grizzlies
Copyright (c) 2007 Travel Alberta, All Rights Reserved
Written by: Travel Alberta
http://www.travelalberta.com




"There's a grizzly! He's in the avalanche run, munching on
buffaloberries."

Sitting on a patch of grass beside Dr. Mike Gibeau, one of
Canada's pre-eminent carnivore specialists, I was swept by his
excitement. Scanning with my binoculars, I sighted the first
grizzly bear I had ever seen in the wild.

My 12 companion explorers scrambled for their field glasses.
"It's an unusual one," said Gibeau. "This individual is almost
black – most grizzlies here are silvertips – but we can tell
it's a grizzly because of its shoulder hump."

Once a year, Holiday on Horseback offers Year of the Grizzly, a
six-day horseback trip through Banff National Park lead by
Gibeau, plus two cowboy guides. The backcountry journey takes
riders along trails through breathtaking mountain scenery north
of Banff, an authentic mountain town that attracts visitors from
around the world. Banff is just a few hours' drive west of
Calgary, Alberta's international gateway city to the Canadian
Rocky Mountains.

The outfitter operates three backcountry campsites: Stoney Creek,
Flints Park, and Mystic. All camps are rustic. Canvas tents,
outhouses, primitive washing facilities, and hearty meals served
in tarpaulin-clad cookhouse 'dining rooms' became our home.

Okay, it seemed inviting. But who in their right mind would
actually seek grizzlies? After all, these symbols of the wild
have a ferocious reputation – and hikers throughout Alberta's
Rocky Mountains buy bear bells, hoping to avoid encounters. So,
was my quest insane?

No. I've seen many mammals of the Rocky Mountains, but never a
grizzly. Plus, I've hiked and ridden through the Canadian
Rockies. I've never worn bear bells and so far, I've never been
attacked. Frankly, I find two-legged critters scarier than
four-legged ones. I'm comfortable in the wild and respectful of
it – and know most animals want to keep clear of people.

Moreover, my fellow adventurers felt like I did.

Ron Warner encourages this respect for the backcountry. He owns
Warner Guiding and Outfitting, which operates Holidays on
Horseback. "There are no recorded grizzly attacks where horses
are involved," said Warner, speaking about the issue of danger.
"I've operated out of Banff for 44 years and we've never had an
incident."

So, after hearing of the Year of the Grizzly horse packing trip,
I was hooked.

Learn Grizzly Habitats and Habits

Having Gibeau along ensured I would learn lots about grizzly
habitat and habits. A biologist and former Banff National Park
warden, Gibeau has studied the backcountry for 24 years. Most
recently, he was a key researcher in the Eastern Slopes Grizzly
Bear Project.

Despite his expertise, there was no guarantee we'd find a bear.
For me, the vagaries of nature added a thrill to the quest and,
when we spotted that first grizzly, an electric current seemed to
buzz among our group. Binoculars clamped to my eyes, I watched
the bear's every move. Buffaloberry bushes grow on these slopes,
which have been cleared of trees by avalanches, and grizzlies can
consume as many as 250,000 berries a day.

While we watched, Gibeau chatted quietly, explaining that bear
attacks are overly emphasized by sensation-seeking media,
promoting the mistaken impression that grizzlies are always
aggressive.

Grizzlies do possess powerful shoulders and claws – but these
didn't evolve just to rip into hapless hikers. Instead, they
enable them to dig into the earth, seeking miniscule ant larvae –
or to rake bushes for mouthfuls of juicy berries. This may not
make a great story for the tabloids, but it is nature and
evolution at its best.

The lunch break over, we caught our horses. Once mounted, we
forded a creek, ascended a hill, and paused to look at our bear,
which by then had descended a considerable distance.

"They travel fast," cautioned Gibeau. "This fellow's come down a
few hundred meters in the time it took us to catch our horses."

We took Gibeau's advice, not wanting to crowd the bear. He
explained that habituation with humans causes the most dangerous
encounters from bears. Once a grizzly becomes unafraid, it
associates people with handouts.

"Despite our pamphlets and signs, people still stop on the
highway and get out of their cars to feed or photograph
grizzlies," said Gibeau. "By doing this, they put themselves in
real danger, and teach bears to associate humans with food."

As well, people are infringing on bear habitat. Gibeau explained:
"Grizzlies need a lot of space: here along the eastern slopes of
the Rockies, a male's territory is 1,000 square kilometres (621
square miles) while a female's is 500. By developing the
mountain park regions, we're destroying their environment."

Scan for Grizzlies

While absorbing these facts, we all absorbed the sunshine, the
fragrant mountain air, and the stunning scenery. And, you can bet
we were all scanning for grizzlies.

Suddenly our lead guide, Mike Beerwald, exclaimed, "There's
gotta be another one close by, look at the trail." There, right
on the trail, were scarlet splashes of fresh bear scat –
obviously, a grizzly was dining on red buffaloberries. Was it
nearby?

Abruptly stopping, Beerwald cried, "Look! On the right! Oh gosh,
it's close!" All of us stopped dead, searching the slope.

I couldn't see it. While others were exclaiming, I grew
increasingly exasperated: Helpfully, Beerwald said, "It's right
there, in the bushes!"

Live a Guide's Dream

Lowering my gaze from halfway up the mountain, to eye-level – I
froze. There, approximately 20 metres (66 feet) away, was the
head of a huge silvertip, perfectly framed by buffaloberry
bushes. Suddenly, it vanished – and we erupted, everyone speaking
simultaneously. Beerwald was over the moon at being the one to
find it – a guide's dream.

Always sensible, Gibeau called: "Move along folks!"

We rode on with barely contained excitement... but no more bear
sightings. That night, we clustered around the wood stove,
replaying the day. Tearing myself away, I headed to my tent.
Pretending I was camping solo in the mountains, I'd chosen the
site furthest away, which won me my nickname, "Bear-bait." I'll
admit it: I found the electric fence encircling the camp
reassuring.

With the Palliser Range framing my view of the constellations at
Flints Park, I fell asleep beneath the Great Bear. Would tomorrow
offer another grizzly?

Indeed, the next afternoon, the spirit of the bear granted a
magnificent specimen. We were returning from a scenic ride along
Flint Creek, when rider Joanne Bartlett exclaimed: "Is that a
bear's butt?" Gibeau simultaneously glimpsed it: "Yes! Stop!"

There, in the sunlight, stood a large silvertip. As we watched,
transfixed by its wild beauty, it reared on its hind legs,
sniffing the air to investigate. Our horses stood, motionless.

Dropping to all fours, the grizzly disappeared into the woods.
Urging us on, Gibeau admitted this was the best sighting he'd
experienced on his Year of the Grizzly trips.

It was our last bear. Nonetheless, we found signs of grizzly
presence, including fresh digs – excavations bears make when
digging up ground squirrels for a nice light snack.

The Flint Creek Ranger's Cabin sports 'welcome mats' outside
its door and windows. Constructed of sturdy wooden planks with
sharp nails protruding, they discourage grizzlies from getting
inside. The mats made me even happier about the electric fence
protecting our camps.

Regardless of mats, none of us were frightened. Instead, thanks
to Gibeau, all of us were enlightened. And that's just what I'd
hoped to be during my quest for grizzlies in the heart of
Alberta's Rocky Mountains.




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