On Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:57:51 +1000, Neville Michie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >On 28/06/2008, at 1:14 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: >> >> >> Stainless is trickier to solder than constantan. >> Welding may be preferable. >> >> >> >A hint for soft soldering stainless steel, iron, nickel, chromium, >copper, brass, nichrome etc. but not aluminium. Another method the works even for aluminum. Using activated liquid rosin flux, immerse the object to be soldered in the flux and while immersed, use a knife or file or something similar to scrape off the oxide coating. Lift the object from the flux and IMMEDIATELY apply heat and solder. The flux excludes air and prevents a new protective oxide layer from forming. Solder wets unoxidized aluminum as well as it does copper. When I need to solder a wire to aluminum sheet, a chassis, for example, I apply a thick drop of liquid flux and use an exacto blade to scrape the surface under the drop clean. Add more flux so that the scrapped area remains covered as the alcohol evaporates, then apply a large, high powered iron and tin the area. I frequently use an old fashioned soldering copper heated in a gas flame to almost red heat. Once the area is tinned, it can be soldered normally. This is the flux that I use http://www.neon-john.com/EV/motor_repair/Kester_1594.jpg No idea if it is optimum for the task but it does work. John -- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net! Tellico Plains, Occupied TN I like you ... you remind me of me when I was young and stupid. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
