Don Latham wrote:
I've fixed shafts like this carefully with plastic swizzle sticks and
super glue. Did I say carefully? a little dab'll do ya...
Don
It is a tricky business. The 5370A I got a while back, had what was left
of the shaft glued into the bushing by an earlier repair attempt. The
shaft plastic is not one that fuses easily (polyethylene maybe). I
managed to repair mine, but the process I used took many hours and I
wouldn't recommend it. I removed the pot and was able to disassemble it.
I then drilled a very small hole down the center axis of the shaft and
used a section of very small screw rod to reinforce the joint. That
combined with glue has held up so far. For the repair, I made a tool to
align the drill to the shaft. The pot is not intended to come apart and
is small. An evil job.
I thought the 5370B had gone to a steel-shaft version of these pots.
Maybe it depends on vintage.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Sims" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:10 PM
Subject: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving
5370A/Binputs
If it's the one that I think it is... look closely at the photo.
The shafts on two of the pots are sheared off at the panel. These
are the display update control and the external arming level
control. These were custom HP pots with a funky (and delicate)
switch. They had brittle plastic shafts. Gee, how do I know
this... could it be that a large percentage of the 5370's for sale
have the same defect?
Luckily those controls are not too critical for normal operation.
They can be replaced with regular (switchless) pots if you jumper the
switch pads correctly. Be careful, there were two different layouts
to those controls.
----------------------
So exactly how did you know that I bought a (cheap) 5370B a few hours
ago on the e-place
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