Hi Works unless you are in a facility where acid flux is outlawed.
Usually not an issue in the basement :)..... Bob On Mar 20, 2010, at 11:36 PM, Neville Michie wrote: > > On 21/03/2010, at 11:58 AM, Bob Camp wrote: >> >> >> To make the heater work right you need the proper resistance / foot heater >> wire. Cupron is a pretty typical material if you want to solder to it. >> Nicrome is fine if you are welding to it. THe real trick here is to find >> somebody with a spool of the right stuff and then beg a few feet from them. >> >> > > > Hi, > Nichrome, stainless steel, iron, nickel, copper, brass in fact most metals > other than aluminium, (zinc is messy) solder very easily with a trace of > phosphoric acid as a flux. > Clean the soldering iron of resin residue, put a trace of phosphoric acid on > the wire, and is solders like new copper. The soldering iron and wire are > very easily cleaned with water afterwards leaving a tinned nichrome (etc) > wire for normal resin cored solder assembly. > The phosphoric acid may be of any strength as the water boils out to leave a > P2O5 paste on the article. > For large items use a huge soldering iron, paint acid on the cold iron/nickel > whathave you and it solders very easily. Do not gently heat an iron article > with acid on it as within > a half minute a protective phosphate coat (like Parkerising) will form to > make it impossible to solder. > It is worth keeping a tiny bottle of phosphoroic acid just for the odd bit of > resistance wire or thermo-couple. > You have to see it to believe it. > Cheers, Neville Michie > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
