I use a hot gun directing heat on the soldered edge. Use a soldering iron and the solder wick as suggested gives the best result, in my opinion. It helps if more than 1 working around the OCXO as at some moment you have to use one or two pins to lift the bottom cover using pliers. I have done this job here at work and recovered the few MV201 that can't heat up (frequency too low at the output). Usually it was a resistor not soldered at one end. In one case there was the crystal inductor not soldered (missing 10MHz at the output) . Heating the bottom avoids the label meltdown too.
On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 1:46 PM, Stan, W1LE <stanw...@verizon.net> wrote: > Would it be better to apply heat the metal shell or to apply heat the > bottom part with the I/O pins ? > I would start using a propane gas torch. Heating quickly till I saw the > solder flow. > > Stan, W1LE Cape Cod > > > > On 2/9/2012 6:04 AM, Azelio Boriani wrote: > >> Don't be afraid and open up your MV89. I have done this with many MV201 >> without problems. >> >> >> > > ______________________________**_________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
