Hi If you actually have to get the product through full humidity and salt spray testing *plus* make it work in the real world - go with the Parylene. The two part urethane coatings are pretty good, the acrylics are nearly transparent.
Bob On May 15, 2012, at 3:21 AM, Attila Kinali wrote: > On Mon, 14 May 2012 19:43:47 -0600 > Tom Knox <[email protected]> wrote: > >> What type of coating do you recommend? What is the downside of coating all >> electronics? > > As i wrote before, we usually use "Plastik 70" and "Urethan 71" for the > stuff that does not need high specs. For those that are under water and/or > more aggresive stuff (like body fluids) we use parylene. > > The down side is that it costs money (it needs a manual step) and it makes > reworks more difficult as you have to ensure that after the rework the > coating is made watertight again (which isn't as easy as it looks). > > Oh.. and connectors are really a pain with any coating. Either you > coat them as well and lose the connectivity or you have a point where > water can creep under the coating. > > Attila Kinali > > -- > The trouble with you, Shev, is you don't say anything until you've saved > up a whole truckload of damned heavy brick arguments and then you dump > them all out and never look at the bleeding body mangled beneath the heap > -- Tirin, The Dispossessed, U. Le Guin > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
