How do you know the product you "paid more money" for is not a counterfeit?
The best you can do is to go to a source that you trust, for some reason, and exercise a right of return. For instance, I have found counterfeit capacitors in products from HP (in power supplies). They looked like Nichicon, but were a slightly wrong color, and had the name mispelled Nichicom. And surprise! They were bad... I have also found United "Chemicom" caps in one device. And I have found counterfeit FTDI USB->RS232 devices in medical instruments... I only know of them because of FTDI's momentary spate of anarchist activity where they had their windows drivers erase the ID from counterfeit parts... The equipment they were in was scrapped because the USB ports failed... A linux utility that I have showed me why (lsusb). As to the LTZ1000 type parts. These references appear in many, many places you might not expect. They are in about all laboratory precision scales, a lot of medical instruments, like thermometers, driers, and ovens, and the Chinese know it. They take pulls from these obscure sources, weld new full length leads onto the stubs on the original parts, and sell them as new. They probably are good enough for 99% of the applications where they might get used. aged even. -Chuck Harris Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) wrote: > > Like Bob Camp said, it is better to pay more money and get a genuine > product. > > Dr. David Kirkby Ph.D CEng MIET _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
