I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips,
and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a
set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those)
Nathan KK4REY
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On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 14:42, Bryan _ <[email protected]> wrote:
If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying
a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead,
and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works
on the very small components though.
-=Bryan=-
________________________________
From: time-nuts <[email protected]> on behalf of Robert
LaJeunesse <[email protected]>
Sent: November 6, 2016 8:42 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning
Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat
spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over
the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the
center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off
with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part
will also work as the heat spreader..
Bob LaJeunesse
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM
> From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" <[email protected]>
> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
<[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning
>
>
> Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't
recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with
sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart.
That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible
pad lifting at some stage.
>
> Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time -
allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the
best, stress-wise.
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