Mention of the E1938 reminded me that I have a schematic that measures 36" X 72" (yes, 3 feet by 6 feet) !! Talk about readability.
Also, somewhere, I still have one of them. I'll need to go find it and try firing it up. Now you got me going again ... 73, Dick, W1KSZ Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook> ________________________________ From: time-nuts <[email protected]> on behalf of Larry McDavid <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:42:40 AM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] HP E1938 Ok, so a standard DB 25-pin socket-contact connector will mate with the on-board connector with the center hole and missing pins. That's good! I now notice a comment on your webpages about this device in which you mention a schematic. Do you have a schematic of this board? If so, can you point to it or send me a copy. I was unaware of the complete packaged unit on eBay; thanks for that. Another poster mentioned the wiring of the connector on the full instrument version power connector; is that pin-out and spec available? Larry On 4/15/2017 5:05 AM, Tom Van Baak wrote: >> I purchased one of these HP E1938 OCXO recently on eBay but have not yet >> received it. >> >> Is that special D-Submin connector a receptacle-shell, pin contact >> version? Will a standard plug-shell, socket contact 25-pin D-Submin fit it? > > Hi, > > I'll cc the group here since we may get some useful comments. > > I'm not exactly sure what you mean. The E1938A oscillators that I've seen and > tested look like this: > > http://www.leapsecond.com/museum/e1938a/ > > And those can be interfaced with a simple D-sub DB25 connector on the PCB. > For connections, see that page, or any number of postings about the E1938 in > the time-nuts archives. > > Note that on eBay there are at least three variations of E1938A oscillator. > The item#'s below are just random search picks (I have no affiliation with > any buyers or sellers) and I also know not all surplus refurbished surplus > recycled surplus stuff works. But we do this because when they did work, they > are sometimes totally amazing. > > 1) There's the bare "puck" alone, as in http://www.ebay.com/itm/290829077542 > -- and I have no idea where one would start with that item since all the > support circuitry on the PCB would have to be re-created by hand. > > 2) There's the integrated PCB assembly, as in > http://www.ebay.com/itm/181043193416 -- which is more like what I tested. > > 3) There's the full instrument version, as in > http://www.ebay.com/itm/171293069062 -- which is most likely to work, or be > less hacked up, or dented, or salvaged, or rusted. It even has all the > connectors and power supplies, and GPS, etc. > > If any other time nuts have experience with each of these methods to obtain a > E1938 oscillator, please let us know. -- Best wishes, Larry McDavid W6FUB Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland) _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
