The second scrapped 5065 that I manage to acquire could perhaps be braughtback 
to life. I already have a supply of electrolytic capacitors but I have my 
doubtsabout the 1.33K resistor that is used in the RV TX assy. It maintains the 
original value, but the protective surface is gone.
Digi-Key sells a 1/2W 1K33; CMF1.33KHFCT-ND, but I suspect that this 1/2 W 
ratingis at 25C. The resistor used in the RV TX pcb is considerably larger.
Can someone tell me where to get them? Corby Dawson was kind enoughto supply me 
with "47 Ohms" of kanthal wire and a 1.33K resistor, but sinceI have "sort of 
started to collect 5065's", I cannot ask for such favors over and over...
The second question is about the RV Receiver in the unit that has beenrestored 
. The 2nd Harmonic level is so lowthat the repaired original instrument seems 
unable to maintain a lock. In the beginning of thelong-time test, the reading 
was steady at 30, and I was able to adjust theRV synthesizer/Magnetic field so 
that I had an absolute 0.0 degree phase shiftover more than 30 seconds when 
comparing the 5 MHz to one of our H-Masersusing a vector voltmeter.
The 709's in the A7 AC-Amplifier has been replaced with 741's (removed the 
frequency compensation networks) but added a 1nF capacitor between(+) and (-) 
input on the first amplifier, thus reducing some noise and instabilityon the 
output signal. The unit was then calibrated and it has beenadjusted according 
to HP service manual.
After re-insertion, the test instrument readings are about the same as 
beforethis modification. PhotoCurrent at 30, and 2nd Harmonic starting at about 
10,increasing slowly during the on-time hours and is now 15
The unit lost the lock at about that level last week

The 137 Hz generator is at 136.87 Hz (varying by perhaps 0.25 Hz)
The PhotoCell was "formatted" using a hair dryer according to instructions.
Can I expect the 2nd Harmonic level to increase until the unit acheives lock or 
shall I remove the RV Photocell and put it in a temperature chamber?We have one 
at my work that can keep temperature quite accurately.
Or should I leave the instrument turned on and let it "sweat it out"?
Ulf Kylenfall
  SM6GXV




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