Thanks! I pulled the board and checked it out as well. Good thing I did before powering it up for the first time, when I shook the case before opening it, it rattledÂ… There was a ~1/4" wide and ~1" long strip of solder splatter that looks like it peeled off the back of the case banging around under the transceiver board.
Saw the B+ and GND connections, everything else passed through clean like you said. Took a Duracell DR5001 usb CLA which has a nice small ACT4012A 1.5A 5vdc switching supply in it, after fighting with it to figure out why it wouldn't power up at 12V, finally realized they were too smart and they had added a ~13Vdc low voltage cut off on it to turn it off when your cars not runningÂ… A little solder wick, a few more parts removed and a little testing later, I replaced R6 with a smd diode so I could ground the enable line to the supply (only pulls down 1ma max) and to protect the ot2 if the supplies other high voltage cut off kicks in and grounds it while the ot2 wants to power it, sliced the trace to jp2 pin 3, tied in the supplies output, a couple more wires and double sided foam tape and success! Power control now switches 5v for my nuvi on the db9. Thanks again Scott! Now just to add a remote "blinky board" for the leds so I can see what's going on and I'm set! Garrett VE6RKY
