When I plan a pattern with little back and forth, and more affinity for twist, I tie onto the loom in a way that it is easy to loosen the not and relieve twist. Just makes it simple from the get go.
Alyssa Sent from my iPhone On Mar 16, 2010, at 12:41 AM, "sarah" <[email protected]> wrote: For me, it hasn't been a problem, however my current loom only weaves 2.5m. I push the twist over the first peg 3-4 times before then working it down the whole length. The key is finding a blunt but thin strong object that you can use to push the twist - depending on the material I'm using, I either use a thick pencil, or a metal skewer :) When it's a pattern that only twists one or two, then you only need to untwist those one or two groups of threads. I always now have my selvedge turning forward all the time as I think it makes a more even result. When my new loom arrives, I will also be using swivels, but on lengths up to 6m, and on a loom that has a second (detachable) side, so will have a couple of adaptations to the way I work. Sarah From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of fiberdba Sent: 16 March 2010 03:11 To: [email protected] Subject: [twist-tabletweaving] Re: Fishing Lure Swivals use of? Thanks for the link to the photos. I'd considered the potential for the little critters myself, and had been trying to work it out in my mind. I have a question. Do they work out well if you have a long warp on the inkle? I'm thinking to keep the tension even you can only push the built up twist over that first peg for so long before you'd have to work it all the way down the length of the warp to the swivel, especially if you are dealing with an very unbalanced pattern where the twist only was a problem on some of the cards. Any extra difficulties if the warl is a long one that you have to travel the twist down?
