Oliver,
It sounds like you are on the right track. Did you do the
u-joints yet? You must be very careful not to remove the output shaft of the
trans where it connects to the u-joints at the trans side of the angled
housing while the trans is still in the boat or the thrust washers in the
trans will slip down and you will have to take the trans out and take it
apart. I have one of those transmissions at my house and would be happy to
see if I can take the angled housing off without removing the shaft to see
what needs to be done to remove the u-joint. I hope I got to you in time
because it would be a pain to have to take the trans out and take it apart.
Let me know on that.
As far as the bearings go, don't worry if you don't find the roller
bearings. It sounds like you will take good care of the transmissions and
v-drives so it should last you longer than you will probably have the boat
or the housing will corrode through first!!
I would be curious to find a new way to cool one of those. I have seen river
boat v-drives like cassale have a tube copper cooling circuit that has the
water flowing through it and the oil sorta surrounds it. Without enough
water flow the v-drive may run real hot without more fluid capacity. Anyway
lets see what kind of ideas you come up with.
Keep us posted
Ken
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 11:04 PM, Oliver <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi Ken,
> Yes it is the output shaft seal and as expected a little bit more.
> I took it of today after I had it running one last time to make sure
> that all the noise comes from the drive and not from the tranny.
>
> Bought myself one of these little mechanics gadgets to listen into the
> hole thing.
> Reminded me of my childhood playing doctor ;-), Anyhow those things
> work great,
> specially with twins where you can check crosscheck the noise level.
> Wasn't expensive $25 at Napa, I have the felling it will be handy for
> future diagnostics.
>
> After pulling the drive of the tranny we took it apart, at least one
> of ball bearings of the
> output shaft is gone, I would assume that the other one is damaged as
> well.
> Anyhow I don't like ball bearings and will try to get roller bearings
> as replacement, they just
> perform better, any thoughts one that.
>
> I think that since I'm at it, I'll figure out an oil cooling for the v-
> drive and get rid of the water jackets.
>
> Again thanks for your input and I'll post more on the progress of the
> rebuild.
>
> Cheers Oliver
>
> On Aug 3, 1:51 pm, Ken Gipson <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Oliver,
> > It looks like the output shaft seal is what you are talking
> about.
> > Anyway I think what I would do in your case is take the drive off at the
> > angle housing and find somebody to inspect it before changing over to the
> > later model ones as the trans must be changed as well. The cooliing on
> the
> > later ones is done with the fluid from the trans by way of the cooler or
> > heat exchanger on the trans. I would for sure have the u-joints replaced
> > while you have it apart because when they break they break the angle
> > housing.
> >
> > I don't have any specs on the v-drive but there are places around that
> > rebuild them.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 1:01 PM, Oliver <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > Hi Ken, yepp your right they are the ones with the waterjackets. They
> > > are from 1971. Couldn't find a serial # or anything on them but they
> > > look the same as the ones following you link. looks like the seal part
> > > #7 is the cause for the leak, but it also makes a different sound when
> > > engaged. For sure it needs to be rebuild or better replaced. How are
> > > the later models without waterjackets cooled? Do you have any spec on
> > > the ratio 1.5 :1 ?
> >
> > > One last question do I have to take care of anything inside the tranny
> > > when I pull the drive off, does a newer drive bolt right up to it?
> >
> > > Thank you for your response, Oliver
> >
> > > On Aug 2, 8:00 pm, Ken Gipson <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > > Oliver, I think I may be able to help but need some more info. What
> year
> > > is
> > > > the power train? Where is the fluid going? is it draining out into
> the
> > > > bilge? Is it a water cooled housing? If it is not draining into the
> bilge
> > > > and it is a water cooled housing it is most likely corroded through
> and
> > > > dumping out through the cooling system. In that case I would look for
> > > some
> > > > later model v-drive transmissions that do not have water jackets.
> They
> > > are a
> > > > little different with regard to length which will change the position
> of
> > > the
> > > > props slightly. I can't remember which way I.E. farther under the
> boat or
> > > > farther out and closer to the rudder.
> >
> > > > Anyway, Let us know. Check out this link of the exploded view of the
> > > water
> > > > jacketed housing for reference. It is from marinegear.com I think
> >
> > > > I sorta went through this with my 31SS
> >
> > > >http://www.marinegears.com/catalog/cat-pp-08.html
> >
> > > > Ken
> >
> > > > On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 5:43 PM, Oliver <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > > > Hi, looks like my starboard v-drive needs some serious work. It
> leaks
> > > > > badly, 3km on 1500rpm and there is nothing left on the dipstick.
> >
> > > > > Does anybody have or know somebody who has one left over from a
> > > > > repower.
> >
> > > > > Is there anything I should know about pulling the drive from the
> > > > > tranny and putting it back together (special tools?)?
> >
> > > > > Thanks for any input.
> >
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