Hi, Chris.
I would suspect a sticky or corroded starter solenoid.  If the starter
is the typical GM type, it will have a smaller cylinder mounted on,
and parallel with, the larger barrel of the starter body.  That
smaller cylinder is the solenoid and drive engagement.  What happens
is, when you turn the key to "Start", a low-amperage current travels
through windings in the body of the solenoid.  This causes the iron
core of the solenoid to be pulled to one end.  The core is connected
to a kind of a lever with two fingers that extends out the back of the
solenoid and down into the nose piece of the starter drive.  The
fingers on the lever shove the starter drive (pinion) into engagement
with the teeth on the ring gear, and simultaneously completes the high-
amperage circuit that energizes the starter motor to turn the drive
and turn the engine over.  When you release the ignition switch, the
solenoid is de-energized and a strong spring pulls the iron core of
the solenoid back, disengaging the pinion and breaking the high-amp
starter circuit.  If the "finger" sticks, it will keep the starter
engaged and the starter circuit closed.  Likewise, if the iron core of
the solenoid is sticky, and doesn't return, it will keep everything
engaged.

The other type of starter system has a separate solenoid.  If you
don't see the smaller barrel of a solenoid mounted on your starter,
trace the heavy lead to the starter motor back until you get to a
device that has two heavy leads (one running to the starter motor and
one running to the + terminal on the battery).  This device will have
one (maybe two) smaller leads and may be cylindrical in shape.  If you
know Fords of the 1960's and 1970's, you'll remember this device as
being mounted on the fender well near the battery.  On these types of
starters, when you turn the switch, you energize the solenoid, which
moves the iron core, which closes the high-amp circuit and makes the
starter motor begin to turn.  This type of starter has a drive pinion
that moves along a spiral groove when it turns, which drives the
turning pinion gear into mesh with the ring gear and turns the motor.
When the engine starts, a spring in the end of the pinion pops the
gear out of mesh and allows the starter to overrun.  The
characteristic of this kind of starter is a propensity, when the motor
kicks but doesn't start, to disengage the starter drive and have the
starter overrun.  You hear a sound like, wah-wah-wah-cough-
vrrrooooommmm, where the engine coughs but doesn't catch and the
starter drive disengages and the starter motor overspeeds.  Then you
have to release the key, let the starter spin down to a stop and try
again.  The solenoids on this type of motor can stick as well.  The
pinion (others have referred to as the "Bendix") can stick, but if it
does what happens, if the solenoid isn't sticking, is that the engine
will drive the starter motor since the drive is still in mesh (bad).

The first type of starter is called a pre-engaged starter, since the
pinion doesn't start turning until it's engaged with the ring gear
teeth.  The second type has a propensity to chew up ring gear and
starter drive teeth since the drive motor is spinning when it smacks
into the stationary ring gear teeth.

If you have the first type, a solenoid replacement should cure your
problems.  If the second, try replacing the solenoid first, then have
the starter rebuilt.  This should include overhauling the pinion
(Bendix).  BE SURE you use marine starter solenoids.  I had a 28
Carver with twin 302 Fords with the non-pre-engaged type starter, and
the former owner used cheap Pep Boys over-the-counter Ford solenoids.
If you engaged them with the engine hatches open at night you could
see the arcing through the casings - very bad news.  Fisheries
Supply's engine parts department (lower level) has correct marine
solenoids even for freaky old motors.  If you need your starter
rebuilt, Romaine Electric is very good, and very reasonable.  I think
they're in Kent; they used to be down by the stadiums on Airport way.

Good luck.

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