http://www.philly.com/mld/dailynews/living/10437128.htm
Marigold Kitchen glows bright
By SONO MOTOYAMA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
IT WAS A DARK and stormy night. In the rain-streaked gloom, windows on the corner emitted a warm glow. We pulled open the copper-plated door, stepped inside an enclosed porch and were led into a middle room, where a merry fire crackled.
"This is the place you want to be when it's rainy, dark and dreary," said my foodie dining companion, Michael, feeling immediately welcome.
Thus began our very happy dining story at Marigold Kitchen.
The 46-seat restaurant sprang up in mid-October on the site of former comfort-food haven Marigold Dining Room in West Philly. (Before that, dating back to 1934, it was Marigold Tea Room.) Rx has staked out this same territory on the culinary fringes of the city.
Chef-owner Steven Cook cleaned out the atmospheric Victorian building, giving it a modern glow to match his cuisine - without stripping out the charm. The walls are painted a soothing mint green; there's custom copper lighting and nifty dark blue-green acrylic tables whose color Michael dubbed "oceanic."
There are smooth stones instead of fake logs in the minimalist, gaslit fireplace - a touch perhaps borrowed from the decor of the now-closed Salt, where Cook worked under chef Vernon Morales.
On the menu, there are other recognizable Salt touches - foam, for example (which Morales in turn no doubt borrowed from his master, Spanish culinary supernova Ferran Adria). But then, I happen to like the foam thing - it's a way to delicately impart flavor and texture. And compared to Salt, Marigold Kitchen's food isn't as precious by half.
Cook has some creative and largely felicitous food pairings, but at base his menu is mostly French. Not surprising, as he attended SoHo's French Culinary Institute while he was plotting an escape from his job as a Wall Street investment banker.
During our visit, Michael started with beautifully presented slices of duck confit rolled around foie gras ($9), sweet quince puree and what we found to be jarringly vinegary pickled chanterelles. Still, as Michael said, "When you have foie gras, who's complaining?"
I had golden beet risotto ($14), cooked perfectly al dente, harmoniously accented with diced red beets and walnut milk foam.
For an entree, Michael ordered the mustard-crusted pork chop ($20), sliced but with the bone on the plate for later chomping (a nice touch). Inspired, Cook said, by Cuban sandwiches, the pork was served with potatoes layered with ham, pickles, mustard and Gruyere. The plate was finished with smoky-tasting collard greens and sauce charcuterie.
I had a tropical-flavored dish: rich, fine-textured Key West pompano ($19), served with coconut-tinged celery root puree, pomegranate sauce and a shrimp "tamale" - a light shrimp mousse wrapped and steamed in a banana leaf. I ate every bit.
We found pastry chef Julia Kovacs' dessert list a bit short (four items, each $6) and lacking, as Michael put it, "a powerhouse, knock-your-socks-off chocolate dessert." Still, we enjoyed our choices. The marscapone cheesecake "trifle" layered cheesecake batter with pecans and cranberry relish, and was topped by orange foam. The key was to mix the layers together to get all of the tastes at once.
Deep-fried, curried milk chocolate croquettes exploded in your mouth. They were nicely accented with mango coulis and rice-and-almond horchata ice cream.
The staff, overseen by general manager Jonathan Makar, seemed exceptionally well-trained, with helpful, personal menu suggestions.
Happily, it seems neighborhood residents and food lovers from all over have already embraced Marigold Kitchen, ensuring, I hope, that this West Philly flower will thrive - even in stormy weather. *
Marigold Kitchen, 501 S. 45th St., 215-222-3699.
Liquor license: BYOB.
Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V.
Reservations: Recommended.
Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat.
Entree prices: $16-$22.
Miscellaneous: Sunday brunch to start Jan. 9, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
Rating: 3 forks.
.
Laying it on the table
Bottom line: About $39 each, plus tip, for three courses and coffee.
Portion control: Moderate.
Service: Very professional, but friendly.
Minor peeve: Flavored coffee - blech. Two words of advice: La Colombe.
Potty report: Minimalist chic; the faucet tests your problem-solving skills.
Would I drop my own dime? Yes! --
***
Thanks,
John Ellingsworth 2004-12-17 ---- You are receiving this because you are subscribed to the list named "UnivCity." To unsubscribe or for archive information, see <http://www.purple.com/list.html>.
