I have an '85 with a stage 1 kit. I have tried all sorts of mix and match
with the Dynojet and oem parts just to see how they work together. The stage
1 kit comes with a drill bit that enlarges the signal hole in the bottom of
the slide. This plus a lighter spring makes the slides open faster/farther
for a given throttle position. If you combine stock needles with this slide
modification the midrange will be very soft. I even tried shimming the
needles up a bit and richer air bleeds and the midrange was still soft,
although the off idle response was good. I currently use the Dynojet needles
shimmed between the highest(leanest) two groves depending on the season. The
number two grove when it's cooler and the number 1 grove shimmed halfway
back to number two when it's warmer. I use the stock air bleeds with this
setup and the idle mixture screws are about 2-1/2 turns out. The main jets
are stock.
Set up this way, part throttle response is outstanding and the engine revs
much more freely than any other combination I could come up with.
My fuel light usually comes on at about 110 miles give or take. The plugs
never foul and it will idle for hours in traffic and not load up.
The downside is that the starting enrichener can't be moved all the way down
or the bike will just be flooded. When starting cold I briefly move the
lever all the way and then bring it back about half way. If it's much above
freezing you can move the lever all the way up and just ride away after
maybe a minute. If it's warm out, once it actually starts just move the
lever off and ride.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Paul Ries" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: V-MAX TECH LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Going back to Stock Jets.
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:32:28 -0800
I've been fighting a carb problem on my '85. The guy I bought it from
said it has dyno jet "stage 2" . Has any one heard of that? I've only know
of stage 1or 7. I asked the tech list about some hesitation problems I was
having at freeway speeds and tried the suggestions put to me. (thanks for
the help by the way.) If the jet needles are set at two from the top, that
requires the pilot screws be set about 4.5 to 5 turns two make the bike run
decently. But makes the bike smell rich at idle (I.E. eyes water.) If I move
the needle clip to 3 from the top the bike seems to run a little harder &
the pilot screws can be set 2.3 to 3 turns out. Now the weird part. the bike
hesitates the exact same way at either setting! the gas mileage is the
same... about 78 miles before red light around town and 100 miles on the
highway. Bob H. asked if there was two washers on the needle assembly .But
there is only one. The bike has a single element foam air filter, air box
intact with the "Y" installed and stock exhaust. The CV slides look to be in
good shape.
Sorry this is so long but I want you to know as much as possible. So
finally my questions! I'd really like to make the carbs completely stock
again so...
1) Can I replace this jet kit with the original needles & jets? I fear
the slides might be drilled out.. no evidence of this however.
2) Do I need the get the stock jets (holes that the needles go in) or
do the dyno jet kits use the original "needle holes"
3) if undoing the jet kit is as easy as taking dyno jet parts off and
putting OME parts back on again; Does anyone out there have a set of stock
needles, needle jets (if needed), & main jets
for sale?
4) If I can't go back to stock without buying $400 worth of CV slides, does
any one have any ideas on how to make my Vmax run like a nice stock max,
with the jets I've got? What am I missing. (besides not knowing what the
Main jets sizes are.) I could sure use 40mpg with that 4 gal. tank !
Thanks for taking the time to read all of this!
Paul
Spokane Wa.
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