Rey, don't know what the height difference of the venture stacks would do, or wheather the ID on the bottoms is the same as the Max 35mm's. i can however tell you that the set-up as i have it now provides such good top-end that while coming back home tonight i rolled on 5th gear to pass and at about 95 mph the thing was accellerating so hard i just about didn't get it turned back down in time to get in my target space in traffic, and yes overshooting at that instance would have landed me in some poor guys lap going the other way.
   this whole deal is kind of scarily sucessful and i really need to advise GREAT CAUTION to anyone that desides to try it!!!! your bike WILL BE a gerat deal stronger and respond to throttle input VERY HARD AND FAST. operator response times are greatly reduced and better be panic free or could be disasterous. if you think you might try this set-up,PPPLLLEEEAAASSSEEE, use descretion and get acostumed to the change before charging off to dust everything else in town. it would be a real drag to me to find out someone ended up as the new Kenworth hood ornament after doing this mod.
 i have a t-shirt that says  "Runs with sissors"  knowing where the ballance is is everything. have fun; be careful.......steve#1131
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: velosity stacks

I have always felt that the stock velocity stacks to be an important part of the equation.  Now, consider the velocity stacks from the Venture. 
They are shorter.  Better top end?
Rey Kirkman
VMOA #439
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 6:53 PM
Subject: velosity stacks

ok, i really dialed in the stg7. the bike was fine as things go, noproblems. then i tried out my velosity stacks under individ. filters idea. this is ABSOLUTELY what you want if you want FANTASTIC, smooth response from IDLE with the stg7. if you act now you will also recieve as an added benefit, the most OUTRAGOUS FAT MIDRANGE TORQUE. this simple mod. will  brake the stock clutch loose on even a modest 5th gear rollon from 4,000 rpm, so send for your double D or heavy duty single (PCW) clutch stuff now.
 what i did was to take a set of stock rubber stacks out of the box and trim the top  flair back so that it was about a 1/4" roll over. install the front ones in stock possition(facing forward) and the rear ones facing each other . now resynch the carbs . now, take them back off and rollthem in on themselves and stick them up in the filters.( when you get them almost down to the first flange ring they will relax and go round)
 now the way i did it was to put the solid toped ones (kit possition, rear) on the front with the wide part of the filter toward the front. pull the filter up the stack just to where the crossover holes ( and outer ring) are exposed. take some ellec. tape and put a couple raps around the stack to close the holes off. drop them on the carbs and tighten up.
 next, put the former front filters on the other to stacks with the stacks and wide part of filter facing one another. pull the filters up to where you can measure 1/2" between the bottom of filter ring and the top flange ring on the stacks. drop them on.
 what you get is the front two about 1-1/2"-- 2" above the back ones, which seems wrong since you have more filter exposed in front than back but since you have the top holes open it all evens out. and the fronts being higher lets more air pass to the back which get more because they are sideways. this all fits perfectly under the lid with no binding. the other thing i did was to take the baffle out of both scoops (just bolt the screens back on) this supplies ALOT more air to the center of the carb stack.
  anyway, this has made a HUGE improvement in the total range performance of my bike, try it and let me know if you agree......steve#1131

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