Thanks TC, Paul, Jean, Jerry.
I think the "hum" resides in the brake pad/rotor. So I'll start there.
Thanks for the input!
Cory
> Cory,
> You know what they say .. if it doesn't run .. chrome it ... Sorry ...
> I just had to say that ... you were wide open and helpless .. I am so
> ashamed for saying such a thing .... yuk ..yuk ... ;>0
>
> OK .. seriously ..... (here comes the real abuse .. fasten your
> seatbelt) ....... The right arm on the swingarm has nothing to do with
> aligning the brake caliper. Other than providing a mounting point for
> the caliper retention bar, (that attaches to the end of the caliper to
> keep it from spinning around when the wheel turns). The alignment of
> the caliper is maintained by the mounting arm being sanwiched between
> the two washers on the right side of the wheel and the "large"
> diameter end of the axel. If you cut the right side of the swingarm
> off with a hacksaw, (behind the retention bar mount), the caliper
> would still remain in perfect alignment. There is no way the caliper
> mounting arm can move in or out whatsoever, (in respect to the wheel),
> ... even if you fail to tighten the bolt at the end of the right side
> of the swingarm.
>
> As far as there being a "gap" between the right side of the swingarm
> and the "washer" .. is of no consequence. I have what appears to be
> slightly less than 1/8 inch gap myself .. my Royal has about a 1/2
> inch ......... The "large" diameter end of the axel simply lays in the
> "C" clamp at the end of the swingarm .. after the axel nut is
> tightened up on the left side .. the c-clamp should be tightened up on
> the right. It only needs to be in the general vicinity of the right
> side of the wheel anyhow since somebody welded a shock mounting on it
> and it is nice to keep the shocks going straight up and down. Of
> course .. gross mis-alignment would cause the swinging radius of the
> right side to be shorter and would have the ability to steer the bike
> as it moved up and down within it's 10 degree operating arc.
>
> Honestly, take a really good look at this arrangement .. it does not
> have to touch the washer ...... the washer "should" be being "touched"
> by the "large" diameter machined end of the axel.
>
> As far as the brakes ... you know you need to get rid of all the old
> pad material embedded in the rotor ....... sandblast or something ..
> when you put new pads on ........ also a nice hatch pattern by hand
> with some sandpaper doesn't hurt either ...... IMHO as always ...
> Please excuse my ribbing .........
> campbell
>
> (you can turn your HTML off too ......) ......
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cory Frost
> Subject: Gap in my swingarm?!?
>
> First part of the story...
>
> I received a chrome swingarm and installed it with new bearings and at
> the same time replaced the rear brake pads. After install I noticed
> while braking with my rear brake (slowing down to a stop only) I get a
> break "hum", not a squeel. This was upsetting, I figured my rotor was
> warped, it did seem to have a big high spot. I switched it out this
> last Saturday with a used rotor, and damed if it still didn't "hum".
>
> Second part of the story...
> After closer inspection, I realized I have a gap in my swingarm,
> between the rear right washer and the swingarm, about an 1/8 to 1/4"
> gap. My concerns now really crop up. was my rear wheel sliding back
> and fourth all this time?!? I'm sure it was. Good thing I've been
> going easy lately. A hard launch could have been bad on those splines
> in the wheel hub...
>
> The questions begin...
> Can I simply fix this problem by adding another washer? Is there
> something else I should look for? Anything to be concerned about?
>
> Thanks for any replies/info.
>
> Cory F.
>
>
>
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