Steve,
IMHO .. if you are lucky you can get the first 10, (probably not
really that much .. depends on where you want to start counting), for
less than $1K. On the bright side is the fact that you will likely
lose 20-30 lbs with most aftermarket exhaust systems, (more likely 25
or less but it takes horsepower to haul everyone's big butt around
town ...). Dracer .. just got 121+ w/ a pipe and a stage 7, (close
enough to that first $1K), and lost the weight ... He might squeeze a
little more out .. but I think it is more realistic to say you can
start counting from 120 with a deposit of $1K ..... After that .. if
you put flatslides on or something to get a solid 130, (typical), then
you are getting close to your figure. Just think what it costs to get
10-20 more than that ....
There certainly are dynos out there though that get themselves between
125 and 130 on just the pipe, jetting and some creativity .... but I
think this is an exception. Of course .. you could have the bores
opened up on your carbs, (38mm), cleanup your manifolds, pull the
heads for some mild port touch-up and a lot of other things that might
not be quite as expensive, (but certainly more labor intensive). You
could always put nitrous on for emergencies .. I guess it depends on
how much you want and how you are going to use it ...... I think most
modern motorcycle engines are doing a pretty good job of squeezing a
lot of hp out of some very small displacements, (this isn't a ford
pinto). After you pick up a few freebees, (maybe), by removing some
exhaust and intake restriction it is going to get expensive ... Even
those few freebees don't really come that cheap as many end up with
less than what they started with or make their lives miserable by
inflicting full time driveability problems and tuning sensitivity. Of
course if you want to do some labor yourself the 1260 might be very
competitive pricing wise, (cheaper), and give you more back from any
of the aforementioned freebees, (get the engine bored/squared locally
... send your crank out to Falicon for balancing .. or the whole
rotating assembly if you don't want to do the pistons/rods yourself
etc) ..... If you just want to squeeze a little more out on the dyno
.. then put a lighter wheel/tire on the back .. a lightened flywheel
.. have the operator adjust your correction factor etc ..
There was a 1989 Motorcyclist article called "Artillery" that was
floating around. It is great reference material and it might have been
a freebee download on the UK site etc .. But this guy among other
things did the 38mm carb routine, a local 1260 piston kit w/ balancing
and local machine work, a Megacycle 257 degree cam w/ a spring kit ..
After bolting on a garden variety Kerker white tip it made 142 RWHP @
9500 ....... this is good but this thing also made 122 RWHP @ 7000 RPM
.... so you see you are playing in a different sand box all together.
If you can't find this article I think I have it somewhere ... I could
post it on a web site for a few days at risk of getting handcuffed
...... hmmmmmmm .... I need to ask those people if they will let us do
a re-print ... Anyhow ... this article is as I said .. great reference
material with exceptional detail.
campbell #95
----- Original Message -----
From: "S_Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: horsepower increase per dollar
> I was amazed recently when I saw someone post a
> message about getting a "trick" new carb system
> and a "new improved" 4/2 exhaust that only
> gave them an additional 25 RWH ...........
> Is spending $3000.00+ plus labor normal
> for getting 25 more horse power from the
> Vmax engine ??
> Steve Moore 94 Vmax
> VMOA#1368
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