Robert,
Taking it a step further, how about dividing things up into two or three Zones,
One for the bath (a little warmer) and one for the rear and separate for the
front. Would work great on larger trailers. Add in some timed thermostats and
only heat things when you need them heated.
This would be really great for heating in the off season to just above freezing
with a relatively small electrical heat source and low temp thermostat. I wonder
if this could be made into a solar configuration, probably a pipe dream,
wouldn't be able to get the BTU's out of anything light enough to be permanently
mounted.
Ooh, I just thought of something, what about connecting up to the tow vehicles
heating system, ala the rear heaters in a lot of the passenger Vans, Use some
quick connects (don't forget some sort of breakaway connection though) and
presto chango, a auxiliary heat source. would be a great way to preheat the
trailer during colder weather towing. Drive and heat as it were.
Am I getting closer to being ridiculous?
:-)
bobb
Robert C Townsend wrote:
> To my thinking, not in the least 'ridiculous'. One of my favorite Byam
> maxims, 'Never leave well-enough alone', suggests exactly such innovation.
> I've been considering integrating a radiant-floor heating system in my '49
> restoration, and the Bayer Dura-Temp floor looks perfect for such an
> installation. The use of PEX plumbing, demand-type ('tankless') water
> heaters, heat-pump technology, laminate flooring, etc., IMHO would be right
> up Wally's alley...
>
> tuna
> '49 Clipper
> wbcci #8862, VAC
>
> ? The layered or sandwiched construction ideas brought forward intrigue me a
> bit
> ? also, what about building your own composite flooring and also
> incorporating in
> ? floor (panel) hydronic heating or maybe even an electric element. Although
> the
> ? hydronic would lend itself to heating with just about any energy source. I
> would
> ? imagine that the pipe diameter could be made to work in fairly small sizes
> ? considering the size of an A/S, say 1/2", these could be plastic or copper
> I
> ? suppose. But this could fill the dead space between the two structural
> surfaces
> ? and make it not so dead. This approach might be worth the extra thickness.
> ?
> ? Just some more ridiculous thoughts.
> ?
> ? bobb
> ?
> ?
> ?
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