"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
>
> There used
> to be a downside with 180�F radiant heating, dried and cracked feet. 110
> or 120�F heat seems to solve that problem.
Not if one uses carpeting over the radiant floor.
> Just a few pertinent
> questions to consider while wondering if the materials can be acquired.
As far as materials (Radiant floor), I've given this a bit of thought since
yesterday, and after reading all the associated posts.
I was thinking of using some fairly thin material for the upper skin, like 3/8
or 7/16 plywood (I wonder how lexan would work as a top skin? could be thinner,
but probably heavier [would this distribute heat better?]). Then some rigid foam
insulation sheet in the middle, same thickness as the tubing diameter, maybe
slightly more. and another skin for the bottom.
In a floor replacement, under cabinet, skin off, I would start by gluing down
the rigid foam to one bottom skin. After things dry, I would get out my trusty
Router and cut the grooves to accept the PEX tubing into the foam. I would
experiment with this a bit to get a snug fit around the tubing. Once this was
completed, I would then glue the top skin down to the foam.
I'm still undecided about what would constitute a good wearing and at the same
time provide a good heat dissipating top skin.
I just found something interesting called Fiberglass-reinforced-plastic (FRP)
overlaid Plywood (is the same thing that was referenced earlier this week?)
anyway these panels seem to have excellent strength characteristics. Check out
this PDF: http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/G215-E.pdf or go to
http://www.apawood.org/
Looks like the core can be down to 1/4" thick. This might be interesting even
when excluding the idea about radiant floors.
I'm still looking for just the right skin material.
bobb
>
>
> Gerald J.
>
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bobb
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