A lot of the classic baseboard is more of a water to air heat exchanger with radiant heating a side effect. So it needs to be hotter to get the air into motion. Both Masonite and aluminum should stand being the surface, and while the aluminum will act well as a heat spreader/evener, it will conduct heat under the cabinets where its not needed and would be truly cold to the bare foot when not heated. And aluminum would need something on top for a finish while the Masonite could be the finished surface and so less impede radiation. Though the Masonite would not conduct heat to the surface for radiation as effectively as bare aluminum. True that routing would allow more versatility in tubing placement, but one would have to watch how "versatile" tubing placement was if the finish layer required screw fasteners that would penetrate the foam... Then its handy to have the tubing in predictable places. Dissipation or spreader plates are good for the heating function, and rotten for the structural function. They need to be adhered to the foam and to the top skin because this assembly converts bending moment to shear between them. I have no experience using the fiberglass sold by Menards. Radiant heating is most effective when it can radiate to the occupants. That's how its efficient. It can't radiate from under the cabinets, and you sure don't need to be adding heat under the refrigerator... I don't know about a heat source. Needs a pump too. I suppose a sureflow water pump will handle the temperature. There are versions that handle farm chemicals decently. Looking at the prices for electric tankless water heaters, I'm inclined to use a 2 or 6 gallon water heater tank for that application. I plan that for my house construction when the kitchen sink is some distance from the water heater. With a good insulation jacket it won't waste as much energy as running water out of 30' of pipe will waste, I believe. And that could be a propane fired water heater too. The gas fired on demand heaters in McMaster-Carr are large enough to heat a palace (or at least the contemporary 2500 square foot house). Flow rate and heat input has to be balanced to produce the desired water temperature. Some electric tankless heaters depend on a minimum pressure drop and restrict the flow with an orifice, some restrict the temperature rise with a thermostat. 5100 btu (1500 watts) is nearly enough for my Caravel, but something larger would need more to be comfortable. The 1500 watt element standard in a 2 or 6 gallon electric water heater could be replaced by something larger. There needs to be an expansion chamber on the heating loop to allow for the changes of water volume when hot. Its not like it can push back into the municipal water line when it expands in the home situation. Gerald J. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Balsa core flooring
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer Thu, 14 Dec 2000 09:11:09 -0800
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core flooring Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... rlb
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... rlb
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... bob basques
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... rlb
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... rlb
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... rlb
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Lewis A. Lindner
- [VAC] Re: Balsa core floor... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
