3/3/01 15:45:01, Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
>...or if I'm doomed to freeze my buns off.
>

As you may have gathered from the replies you've already received, the only honest 
answer probably is: "it depends".  It 
depends upon the age of your a/s, how it is set up, and how well it has been kept up.  

At one extreme, the newest coaches have had special attention given to the issue, and 
even have extra insulation 
between the ribs and the interior skin to decrease heat transfer by that route.  Some 
as far back as thirty years ago were 
double-glazed.  All of them for many years have had a layer of fiberglass sandwiched 
between the inner and outer 
aluminum skins.  

How well does this work?  You probably can judge this only by gathering the individual 
experiences of other owners, and 
try to extrapolate that to your own personal comfort level.  

John and Dan already have outlined their experiences for you.  My own personal 
experience is based on three winters in 
the less draconian climate of central Ohio, in a fairly stock '72 Safari.  That means 
single-glazed windows, a single 600 
watt radiant heater, the original 22,000 BTU Suburban furnace for two winters, and a 
32,000 BTU Atwood replacement 
for the third.  

During these three winters I have experimented quite a bit to see just how much I 
would have modify this setup in order 
to remain comfortable -- and let it be said from the beginning that I am not into 
martyrdom or "tough".  This is how it has 
turned out for me:

Particularly with the Atwood replacement, there has been no trouble keeping the 
interior of the coach at temperatures 
above 70 for any external temperature down to zero, even with no modifications.  

However, that is not the same as "comfortable".  In the first place, the unmodified 
coach has a lot of infiltration, through 
holes in the floor, around the wheelwells, around the refrigerator, around the 
battery, etc.  Secondly, vents covered with 
a single layer of aluminum and windows glazed with a single pane get very cold and 
transfer a lot of heat fast.  
Therefore, even when the thermometer says the temperature is fine, one can feel 
chilled due to drafts and radiation of 
body heat to the cold surfaces -- particularly near the large wraparound front window. 
 

To this point I have experimented with only a couple of minimalist modifications.  The 
most helpful was to Scotch tape a 
single layer of Saranwrap over the air conditioner, two of the three vents, and one of 
the side windows.  The other has 
been to make liberal use of pillows and a comforter between someone sitting on one of 
the beds and the wall.  With 
these, I have managed to remain quite comfortable throughout all three winters, as has 
my wife (who actually prefers 
cooler temperatures than I).  I have kept a supply of heavy-gauge clear plastic film 
oon hand for more aggressive 
glazing, and a suppy of caulk to seal off the the cracks around refrigerator, etc., 
but have not been motivated to use 
either as yet.

While I'm sure this would not suffice at -20, the only real downside to this 
arrangement so far has been the rate of 
propane consumption.  I go through about thirty pounds a week at freezing 
temperatures, and in just a few days at the 
single digits.  I do plan to caulk the cracks and to recarpet the coach up to the 
beltline (similar to the current production) 
sometime this year.  Were I then to put plastic film over all the windows and vents, 
I'm sure my propane consumption 
would drop back drastically.  I probably am too lazy to expend the energy Dan has 
unless I decide to do January in 
North Dakota -- a highly unlikely proposition.  

Hope this is of some use to you.  This is a fascinating topic for me, and I would like 
to see more on it.

                        -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
bicycle






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