Questions I have been bumbling along thinking I knew what was happening and now I
wonder....
I assume you are looking for a green light and no red light..... potential between hot
and ground and less than 60 volts or so between neutral and ground...
If the connections get reversed at the pole, What should be neutral is hot and what
should be hot is neutral and probably grounded, if not at the pole , then
probably by the power company at the transformer... the trailer sees a ground wire and
what should be the neutral with power on it and what should be hot,
grounded... so red light but not green light....
If the ground wire is bad, then no current flows and the neon will not light... no
green and no red.....but the 110 vac outlets are reversed....And it shows bad
ground...
I haven't torn into the AC panel, but should I have a separate green wire circuit back
to each 3 prong outlet?? I know I have some 3 prong outlets and didn't look
to see if there was a block in the AC box with all the green wires connected...I need
to do some more looking....I think there are 3 AC circuits. I have a small light
on the rear of the trailer and I have not tried to light it by reversing the AC
polarity, just assumed thats what it was for...
I do remember seeing comments on removing the connection between the neutral and
ground on the generator and remember wondering why that would be
different from the neutral to ground connection on the park outlet??? Or are park
outlets not normally connected between neutral and ground?? If one side of the
110 is not grounded, the whole thing could float off and assume some nasty
potentials...to ground....
Should I dig into my generator and make sure the neutral is not grounded???
Should the trailer skinn be grounded?? Now days it's a little tougher to make the
case of a defective tool hot by reversing the plug in the outlet, but I am sure there
are some devices out there that can get that way... If that happens and the skin is
grounded, we stand a good chance of getting in between hot and ground....Not
good.....If the skin is not grounded, there is some chance that it could be make hot
by frayed wire in the body, or some other connection between hot and the trailer.
With nowhere for the current to go, it waits for someone to step off the metal step
and get one foot on the ground and one on the trailer, or in my case one on the
ground and a hand on the door, trying to keep the wind from slamming it against the
trailer....So, should the trailer be connected to the ground wire to the park
outlet??? If I use my little portable tester in the trailer, the ground prong needs
to provide ground, or I don't get the right pattern of lights...(right??) I can see
this from
outside the door when hooking up...but so far I have had a hand on the door when
looking....
Somewhere in here I am asking :
Should the ground circuit be kept as a separate circuit from ground prong in the
outlet to the ground prong on the park outlet??
Should I dig into the generator to make sure the neutral is not grounded??
Should the skin be grounded??
Should I be using a tester and adapters to match the pole outlet and If I see the pole
is reversed, then what would be a prudent next step... ask for another slot??
I have not been checking the park voltage... should I be??? Low voltage messes up
motors and high messes up some of my other stuff....
I didn't think I was confused, but I could probably get that way from here....sorry
about the wandering....
Jim
03/07/2001 7:13:05 AM, Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Joy,
> Many folks carry and use an outlet tester before plugging their trailer
>in.
>
>Note: NEVER connect the neutral bus in your trailer's entrance box to
>ground!!! This is exactly the opposite of how it's done in your house.
>If the hot and neutral wires were to get reversed, your trailer would be
>"hot" and could electrocute you.
>
>I installed 2 neon lights on my control panel, one from hot to ground
>(green cap), the other from neutral to ground (red cap). This tells me
>immediately if there's a problem.
>
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