Marc, I suspect the Chrysler tow car may have used the wire from alternator to battery as the shunt. Adding a diode to that wire would add a whole lot of voltage drop to fry the panel meter. That could have been avoided had the little wire on the alternator been moved to the diode isolator along with the original alternator to battery wire. When the ignition was on the second battery and that battery was dead, the car wouldn't start until the second battery was charged enough to run the ignition. I don't consider that the starting battery should be isolated from the ignition battery in the tow vehicle. What's needed is that the trailer battery be isolated from the car starting and running battery so that the trailer use won't run the car starting and running battery down. Also since the wire to the trailer is not capable of handling starting the diode isolator keeps the trailer battery from trying to charge the starting battery while cranking. My '98 F-150 does use a relay, but that relay may be controlled by the computer to prevent it being on unless the engine is actually running. Not just with the ignition switch on. Your relay proposal does allow using both batteries for cranking but I don't think the tow car benefits from isolating the second battery. If it needs all that cranking power, I'd be sure the starter circuit cables were enlarged a size or two (maybe to 1 or 2 gauge if not 0 gauge) and the starter brushes, commutator and bearings were not worn out and I'd just hook the two tow car batteries in parallel (as in a diesel). I'd use the diode isolator for the trailer battery and wiring protection. P&B makes a relay like the starter relay, for continuos service, but since the pressure on the contacts is smaller (lower coil power) its not rated for starting current either. I've found some aircraft relays that are continuous duty and rated for 200 amps continuos, but they have 24 volt coils. Gerald J. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Why Car & Trailer Battery to Univolt?
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer Thu, 08 Mar 2001 15:43:36 -0800
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Trailer... Weimers
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Chris Bryant
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Harvey Barlow
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Mr. Joy H. Hansen
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Weimers
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Chris Bryant
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Weimers
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Weimers
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Weimers
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Robert C Townsend
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Why Car & Tr... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
