Joy:
I like the idea of using a rotary file on a Dremel (I have one) to remove rusty sheet metal screws. Once the head of the screw is gone, how do I remove the remaining screw shaft from the frame.
Jeff
>From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Removing rivets and runst screws
>Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:35:28 -0400
>
>Hi Jeff,
>
>If you are talking about sheet metal screws, they are harder 'en hell and I've ruined many a bit trying to drill them out. I finally settled on using a rotary file that is easy to control. Especially in a small hand held tool like a Dremel. However, I use my regular 3/8th inch drill or an angle grinder. Just have to work very careful with the larger tools. I've had some success, sometimes, using vice grips to grasp the head of the screw, but it works so seldom that I only attempt this technique for one or two screws.
>
>For the larger belly pan rivets, I drill them completely through with a bit smaller than the rivet body. Then, I cut the head off with a sharp chisel. The aluminum sheet usually pops loose when the head comes off. I can remove the body from the rear when the panels are dropped. I bought pop rivets with SS shanks and have now decided not to use them as they would be nearly impossible to remove later. I'll use only aluminum pop rivets with aluminum shanks. No sense making the job harder in the future by using pop rivets with steel or SS shanks. The rationale for using steel or stainless shanks is to get
>
>I bought some rivets from Airmark Tools, but the best belly pan rivets came from an Airstream dealership. The heads are about 1/2 inch in diameter. The rivets in the belly take a lot of abuse and I think the heavier rivets are a better replacement. If you are interested in this type of rivet, let me know and I'll get the measurements.
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
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