>I like the idea of using a rotary file on a Dremel (I have one) to remove
rusty sheet metal screws. >Once the head of the screw is gone, how do I
remove the remaining screw shaft from the frame.
>Jeff
Removing the rest of the screw after you grind off the head is unique for
each situation. If I can get to the backside of the screw, I use vice grips
to move the screw until I can get the vice grip on the head. If the panel
must come off first - e.g. a water heater shroud -
when the head is removed, the shroud is removed and then the screw body can
be accessed. For a belly skin, it isn't essential that the new fastener use
the same hole. It's nice for alignment, but not critical. If you don't
like the old hole, a dab of Parrbond or Vulkem will do, thank you. If it's
impractical to remove the body of the sheet metal screw from the backside of
the panel, I grind the body flush and forget it.
I read many posts where the recommendation is to use sheet metal screws for
the belly pan. However, the sheet metal screws, unless stainless, corrode
quickly. I think this is due to electrolysis/galvanic action that hastens
the deterioration. Result is that I will only use sheet metal screws where
it's critical like securing aluminum to wood or the water heater shroud. I
prefer SS; however, aluminum screws are available that might limit
corrosion. Otherwise, I must paint the screws to keep them from corroding.
Sure is a lot to learn . . .
'69 Safari, Joy
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