VACList-Digest Sunday, August 5, 2001 Issue 22
Today's Topics:
1. Wrap Windows again....
2. Re: Wrap Windows again....
3. Water heater Replacement -- 1968 Airstream (Part 1)
4. Re: Experience & Expertise Needed - Bowen WH Removal
5. Re: Water Heater Replacement (' 68 Tradewind)
6. Test
7. Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
8. 1960 22" Safari
9. 1964 Tradewind
10. Re: Jalousie windows
11. Re: 1960 22" Safari
12. Re: Water heater Replacement -- 1968 Airstream (Part 1)
13. Re: 1960 22" Safari
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 19:01:14 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wrap Windows again....
Ok, I am getting closer....
I was able to get some Lexan. I made a pattern with card board and cut the
lexan quite easily with a jig saw.
Now I have found my original rubber gaskets that I carefully cleaned and
saved are falling apart.
I am thinking of putting the windows in w/o the gasket and sealing around
them on both sides with vulkum in the aluminum frame.
Any comments?
Thanks for the input.
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.bigfoot.com/~tim.shephard/tim/
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 22:21:26 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wrap Windows again....
Clean up those rough sawn edges with a file to be fairly smooth. I think
the Lexan will last longer.
I don't see why not seal with vulkem.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 17:27:59 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water heater Replacement -- 1968 Airstream (Part 1)
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In the absence of any available guidelines or instructions, I will =
detail below the process I used to remove the Bowen 10 gal water heater =
from my ' 68 Tradewind. Based on the floorplans pictured in the ' 68 =
Owner's Manual, I believe the process would be similar for other ' 68 =
models. In Part 2 to follow, I will describe the installation of an =
Atwood 6 gal replacement water heater.
I began the process by taking out the 25 screws attaching the three =
piece textured access door on the rear curb side of the exterior skin. =
These screws were rusty and had stained the aluminum cover of the access =
door and its flange which will require cleaning if the original cover is =
to be modified for the new Atwood and reused. With the cover off, the =
rusted burner, gas control valve, thermocouple, etc. was obvious.(This =
water heater was long past its useful service life.) The flange/frame to =
which the three piece cover was attached was "glued" in with what =
appeared to be old Vulkem. Carefully inserting a putty knife between the =
trailer skin and the water heater frame, I was able to loosen and =
separate the mounting frame from the trailer skin. Testing to see what =
these steps had accomplished, a strong tug on the water heater itself =
revealer that it was still solidly attached. The next step was to look =
at the back of the water heater for any anchors or attachments from =
inside the trailer.
The only visual access to the back of the Bowen water heater, including =
the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet is through the =
cabinet/access door under the bathroom lavatory -- perhaps an easy =
process for a contortionist. One metal tab attached to the right rear of =
the water heater and screwed to the floor was visible. That screw was =
removed and the flair fittings on the water lines to the heater were =
unscrewed and separated. No other attaching points could be seen from =
under the lavatory.
Back outside, the LPG gas line was removed from the gas control valve on =
the heater and from under the trailer at the shut off valve. This 26" =
length of copper tube which goes through the trailer floor and the =
bottom pan of the WH was completely removed. It was necessary to cut it =
in two because of its shape and a new piece of tubing with flair =
fittings will be required. As far as could be seen, the water heater =
should now be free to slide out.
A strong tug on the heater from the outside revealed that it was still =
solidly attached to the trailer. Back with the putty knife and more =
loosening of the heater flange which was still "glued" in with Vulcem. =
Finally separated, I was able to slide the water heat out about 3-4 =
inches but no further. Try as I might it wouldn't come out further. Back =
inside and under the lavatory looking for the problem.
Ah, so. Problem revealed. Because the tank of the water heater is wider =
than the mounting flange, an aluminum spacer had been attached to the =
inside skin with pop rivets to close the gap. This spacer must have been =
installed after the water heater was in place but before the bathroom =
end cap was installed. There is no access to drill out the pop rivets =
without removing the bathroom end cap. Pass. On to plan B.
When all else fails, resort to brute force and awkwardness.
How to force the heater out past the aluminum spacer which can't be =
reached to remove? I attached one end of my "come-a-long" to the heater =
drain valve and the other end to a steel rod driven in the ground a =
suitable distance away. Ratcheting away, the heater moved out several =
more inches but again stuck. Examining the opening in the trailer skin I =
could see that the upper corners of the aluminum spacer were catching on =
the top of the heater. A diagonal snip with tin snips freed the corners. =
More ratcheting with the come-a-long and the water heater was out. =
Success. =20
Since I hope to use the original access door/cover on the new Atwood =
replacement heater, the next step was to separate the door flange from =
the heater flange. These two pieces were attached with heavy staples =
which were pried out. There are two reasons for using the original door =
cover. First, to maintain the original appearance and second because =
Atwood no longer has available the stainless steel access door used on =
later model Airstreams. Instead, a painted white steel door is supplied =
with new Atwood heaters. IMHO, a white pointed door will look out of =
place with my later to be polished ' 68 Tradewind. =20
The next step will be to install the new Atwood heater. The trials and =
tribulations of that process will be described in a subsequent report.
Jim Greene
(Boy Wonder) =20
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In the absence of any available =
guidelines or=20
instructions, I will detail below the process I used to remove the Bowen =
10 gal=20
water heater from my ' 68 Tradewind. Based on the floorplans pictured in =
the '=20
68 Owner's Manual, I believe the process would be similar for other ' 68 =
models.=20
In Part 2 to follow, I will describe the installation of an Atwood 6 gal =
replacement water heater.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I began the process by taking out the =
25 screws=20
attaching the three piece textured access door on the rear curb side of =
the=20
exterior skin. These screws were rusty and had stained the aluminum =
cover of the=20
access door and its flange which will require cleaning if the original =
cover is=20
to be modified for the new Atwood and reused. With the cover off, the =
rusted=20
burner, gas control valve, thermocouple, etc. was =
obvious.</FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>(This water heater was long past its useful =
service life.) The=20
flange/frame to which the three piece cover was attached was =
"glued" in=20
with what appeared to be old Vulkem. Carefully inserting a putty knife =
between=20
the trailer skin and the water heater frame, I was able to loosen and =
separate=20
the mounting frame </FONT> <FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>from the =
trailer skin.=20
Testing to see what these steps had accomplished, a strong tug on =
the water=20
</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>heater itself revealer that it was =
still solidly=20
attached. The next step was to look at the back of the water heater =
for any=20
anchors or attachments from inside the trailer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The only visual access to the back of =
the Bowen=20
water heater, including the cold water inlet and the hot water =
outlet is=20
through the cabinet/access door under the bathroom lavatory -- perhaps=20
an easy process for a contortionist. One metal tab attached to the=20
right rear of the water heater and screwed to the floor was =
visible. That=20
screw was removed and the flair fittings on the water lines to the =
heater=20
were unscrewed and separated. No other attaching points could be=20
seen from under the lavatory.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Back outside, the LPG gas line was =
removed from the=20
gas control valve on the heater and from under the trailer at the shut =
off=20
valve. This 26" length of copper tube which goes through the trailer =
floor and=20
the bottom pan of the WH was completely removed. It was necessary to cut =
it in=20
two because of its shape and a new piece of tubing with flair fittings =
will be=20
required. As far as could be seen, the water heater should now be free =
to slide=20
out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A strong tug on the heater from the =
outside=20
revealed that it was still solidly attached to the trailer. =
Back with the=20
putty knife and more loosening of the heater flange which was still =
"glued" in=20
with Vulcem. Finally separated, I was able to slide the water heat out =
about 3-4=20
inches but no further. Try as I might it wouldn't come out further. Back =
inside=20
and under the lavatory looking for the problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ah, so. Problem revealed. Because =
the tank of=20
the water heater is wider than the mounting flange, an aluminum spacer =
had been=20
attached to the inside skin with pop rivets to close the gap. This =
spacer must=20
have been installed after the water heater was in place but before the =
bathroom=20
end cap was installed. There is no access to drill out the pop rivets =
without=20
removing the bathroom end cap. Pass. On to plan B.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>When all else fails, resort =
to brute force and=20
awkwardness.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>How to force the heater out past the =
aluminum=20
spacer which can't be reached to remove? I attached one end of my =
"come-a-long"=20
to the heater drain valve and the other end to a steel rod driven in the =
ground=20
a suitable distance away. Ratcheting away, the heater moved out several =
more=20
inches but again stuck. Examining the opening in the trailer skin I =
could see=20
that the upper corners of the aluminum spacer were catching on the top =
of the=20
heater. A diagonal snip with tin snips freed the corners. More =
ratcheting=20
with the come-a-long and the water heater was out.=20
Success. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Since I hope to use the original access =
door/cover=20
on the new Atwood replacement heater, the next step was to separate the =
door=20
flange from the heater flange. These two pieces were attached with heavy =
staples=20
which were pried out. There are two reasons for using the original door =
cover.=20
First, to maintain the original appearance and second because Atwood no =
longer=20
has available the stainless steel access door used on later model =
Airstreams.=20
Instead, a painted white steel door is supplied with new Atwood heaters. =
IMHO, a=20
white pointed door will look out of place with my later to be polished ' =
68=20
Tradewind. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>The next step will be to install the new Atwood heater. The trials =
and=20
tribulations of that process will be described in a=20
subsequent report.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jim Greene</DIV>
<DIV>(Boy Wonder) </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 07:05:27 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Experience & Expertise Needed - Bowen WH Removal
Lincoln, I was able to get to and disconnect the water lines on the heater
through the door under the lavatory with some difficulty by lying on the
bathroom floor. Unlike your experience, I was not able to access the pop
rivets holding the aluminum "spacer" to the inside skin because the water
heater itself was in the way. I considered cutting an access "door" through
the closet wall closest to the bathroom but I realized that is a double wall
and I would have to cut through a second bulkhead forming the bathroom wall.
Consequently, from the outside, I made a diagonal cut in the upper corners
of the aluminum spacer (which is shaped like an inverted "U") and let the
water heater bend the spacer out of the way as I pulled the Bowen through
the opening in the inside and outside skin.
When you installed you new water heater did you reattach the aluminum spacer
to the inside skin? I will not be able to reach the spacer once the new
Atwood has been inserted in the opening but I may be able to partly bend it
somewhat back into shape before sliding the new heater in all the way and
attaching it to the outside skin.
>From the looks of it, installing the new heater will be easier than getting
the old one out. Utilizing the original three-piece access door/cover with
the new Atwood will require some ingenuity but I believe can be done and
thus avoid having to attach a new piece of aluminum to the outside skin to
reduce the size of the opening to match the door size of the new Atwood.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "soule" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 16:38
Subject: [VAC] Re: Experience & Expertise Needed - Bowen WH Removal
> HI Jim,
>
> I just wrestled my vintage Bowen out of its hole last week.. I had full
> access to both the inside and outside and it was still a struggle. The
> Bowen in my 1977 Tradewind did not have any attachments beyond those on
> the flange, but there was such a huge wad of caulking in the wall that
> it took some slow, careful prying to get it out. You didn't mention
> anything about disconnecting the water connections, but I assume that
> you were able to do this because the WH isn't going anywhere unless it's
> disconnected. One other thing that will make your life difficult is the
> strips of aluminum that are pop-rivited to the inside wall that cover
> the space between the hole in the inside skin and the WH. As I said, I
> had full access to the inside so I was able to remove these strips. If
> it turns out to be caulk that is holding the beast in, I recommend
> careful application of a wide, flat pry bar.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Lincoln Soule
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 09:04:27 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Replacement (' 68 Tradewind)
Hello, David .....
Out of curiosity, what software package are you using for e-mail on your
computer? We need to get you able to broadcast to all list members.
You asked:
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Gentry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 21:34
Subject: Water Heater
> Hello, Jim. I am new to the VAC list and still haven't figured out how to
> send to the whole list. Anyway, my original Bowen water heater is leaking
> and I need to replace it. Is the 6-gallon Atwood that you got from
Camping
> World an exact fit for the hole taken up by the Bowen?
I think the literal answer about being an exact fit is "no," it's not an
exact fit -- but then none of the new water heaters are an exact fit for a
1968 model Airstream. Let me explain. As I recall, the opening in the
outside skin of my previous Airstreams (a ' 71 Tradewind and a ' 73
Sovereign) measured very close to the 16"W x 12 1/2" H of the current Atwod
water heaters. On the other hand, the opening in the exterior skin of my '
68 Tradewind is larger and measures approximately 20" W x 14" H. The larger
opening being required by the size and shape of the old Bowen heater. The
original cover for the opening in the skin is approximately 22" W x 17" H
and large enough to cover the skin opening and was attached to the skin with
some 25 sheet metal screws and a generous amount of Vulcem. There is an
opening in the old cover that measures approximately 16" W x 14" H (same
size as the flange on the Bowen) that is covered by louvered upper and
lower aluminum panels which attach to the old cover with the lower one being
held on by spring clips for removal and access to the burner. It's my hope
that the old cover can be modified to work with the new Atwood heater to
retain the original ' 68 appearance.
> Also, I note that
> they include the access door. Is the door silver aluminum like the rest
of
> your trailer. I did not see that any options of finish are given.
Nope, an aluminum or stainless steel door (as supplied with the Atwood
previously) is no longer available according to Atwood. I inquired
specifically. The current door Atwood supplies is painted white on steel.
That is another reason for trying to retain the old cover that had been used
with the original Bowen heater. A white door on an aluminum skin coach would
not be suitable in my view.
> I gather also that since you did not get but one bite so far that not too
> many people are knowledgeable about this. I would be interested in
learning
> from your experiences.
The great thing about the VAC list is the opportunity to learn and share
information on the repair, renovation and restoration of classic vintage
Airstreams. I've learned a lot from the list and hope I can benefit others
from my experience as others have helped me. Airstream folks are the
greatest!
> Thanks, and best of luck with the project.
>
> David
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Thanks for the good wishes, David. I'll be reporting further as the project
continues.
Jim Greene
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 09:36:51 -0400
From: "DMH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Test
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Hello,
I am new to this and wanted to see if I am doing this correctly. =
Thanks, Dave
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to this and wanted to see if I =
am doing=20
this correctly. Thanks, Dave</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 21:40:30 +0200
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Lorenz Weiss)
Subject: Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
Lorenz Wei�
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Vanessa,
my trailer is a 1957 Airstream Custom (so says the plate near the door). It is
22 feet long and seems to have been built as a Flying Cloud. The trailer is in
really "not so nice" condition, but I wanted a 1957 Airstream to put it behind
my '57 Chevy...and so I got it (and a lot of work also). But I think, restoring
can be fun (and it really is fun for me!).
Kind regards,
Lorenz Weiss
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 16:58:22 -0400
From: "Majorie Smallfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1960 22" Safari
Hello All:
My husband and I are looking at a 1960 22" Safari. We found one a couple of
miles from our house and approached the owners. They would like to get rid
of it and we would like to have it. They will be calling with the price.
Does anyone own one of these from 1960 out there? Please tell us what we
need to look at if we like their price. They say everything worked last
time they used it which was about 4 years ago. They drained all the fluids
and just parked it. Would anyone like to venture a price...? It looks like
everything is original, wood, original bathroom, refrigerator is gas, stove
looks good. Any help would be great. I love this list you all know so much
and share it freely. Thanks.
Margie
Michigan
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 17:38:09 -0400
From: Jim Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1964 Tradewind
Airstream central has a "1964 Tradewind" dual axle for sale. I thought
the
change to dual axles came in 1965.
Jim
'61 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 15:06:33 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jalousie windows
Susan,
I hope Jere hops in with more info, but the side brush seals are used in
shower stalls and comes with an adhesive backing. I think I have all of
3 inches of it left, but got ours at a smaller mom & pop glass shop in
Sparks Nevada while visiting relatives there. Same with top & bottom
1/4 inch "T" bulb seal. It only came in clear and we had to cut 1/8" of
one of the legs to fit in the groove. It too was used on showers. I
guess the best bet is to keep checking out all the glass shops you come
across. I know that Steve at AirstreamDreams.com is looking into
getting the bulb seal made again. I think if anyone finds the brush
seal again, get the manufacturers name and address and Steve can check
them out too.
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
Susan Altstatt wrote:
> All, and in particular Jere Potter;
> I'm reworking my jalousie windows on my 64 Safari, and
> need a source of the slide-in side seals.
> Some time ago Jere Potter mentioned finding the slip-in side seals
> at a glass shop. Jere, if you're still out there,
> could you please tell me the name of the glass shop where
> you found yours? I haven't been able to find them yet.
> The glass shop I was in this morning had never seen anything
> like it.
> Also, did you replace the horizontal rubber extrusion seals
> at the top
> and bottom? (the ones the top pane and bottom pane close against).
> Thank You,
> Susan Altstatt
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 15:13:07 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1960 22" Safari
Majorie,
This'll give a you one method to determine value.
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/rr_topics_pricevscondition.html
As a side note to everyone else, the information on the above page is
not Gospel or cast in stone. If anyone has any thoughts or
recommendations, contact me offlist. I don't suffer from "not invented
here" syndrome, and am receptive to ideas.
Later,
RJ
VIntageAirstream.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Majorie Smallfield wrote:
> Hello All:
> My husband and I are looking at a 1960 22" Safari. We found one a couple of
> miles from our house and approached the owners. They would like to get rid
> of it and we would like to have it. They will be calling with the price.
> Does anyone own one of these from 1960 out there? Please tell us what we
> need to look at if we like their price. They say everything worked last
> time they used it which was about 4 years ago. They drained all the fluids
> and just parked it. Would anyone like to venture a price...? It looks like
> everything is original, wood, original bathroom, refrigerator is gas, stove
> looks good. Any help would be great. I love this list you all know so much
> and share it freely. Thanks.
> Margie
> Michigan
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 18:14:38 -0400
From: "Dan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water heater Replacement -- 1968 Airstream (Part 1)
Are we having fun yet ?
I bought my '68 Caravel as a restoration in progress. The previous owner
had gotten transferred, and the subdivision he moved into did not allow
trailers on the property.
He had removed the original Bowen, and bought a new Atwood. Haden't
installed it yet - so when I got the trailer, there was a big hole in the
side. Wasn't a problem for him - he was working on it in a garage he had
built specifically to fit it. My garage isn't that tall - so the 'stream is
in the driveway. For the first few months, I just had an oven liner duct
taped over the hole. Finally got around to installing the Atwood. It slid
into the opening snugly, but without much trouble. Problem was how to
securely mount it. There was nothing substantial behind the mounting holes
on the Atwood - just the outer skin of the stream. Could have riveted it
in. but that did not seem secure.
I found that a 2 X 2 would fit nicely in the lower aluminum channel, and
loosly between the inner and outer skin. Framed it up, with the side
members at the precise height, and the upper and lower members extending a
couple inches foreward and aft.
Used wood screws - and half a tube of Velukem behind the flanges to mount
it.
Haven't fired it up yet - the original bypass valve arrangement needs to be
reworked, as does the gas line. BTW - one point in favor of the Atwood -
the gas line connection is on the outside of the trailer, unlike the Bowen.
Anyway, might have to shim the tank up to keep weight off of the shell - but
looks OK for now.
Took the Atwood SOB white cover off, and masked it and roughed it up with
fine grit sandpaper. Spray painted with Rust-oleum 7716 heat resistant
silver. Rated to 1200 F. Not as glossy as my 'stream will be, but not a
bad match for the current finish.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 5:27 PM
Subject: [VAC] Water heater Replacement -- 1968 Airstream (Part 1)
In the absence of any available guidelines or instructions, I will detail
below the process I used to remove the Bowen 10 gal water heater from my '
68 Tradewind. Based on the floorplans pictured in the ' 68 Owner's Manual, I
believe the process would be similar for other ' 68 models. In Part 2 to
follow, I will describe the installation of an Atwood 6 gal replacement
water heater.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 17:09:34 -0600
From: "pryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1960 22" Safari
Margie,
I have a 1960 22' Safari. I picked it up about 9 years ago in New York for
about $850, but it was closer to a basket case. One bit of advice I offer
is that the original furnace had a recall on it many years ago and should
not be used. Mine didn't work and I removed it to have someone look at it.
When we queried about parts availability we were told about the recall. The
most costly appliance is the refrigerator. Make sure it works or plan to
spend about $1000 for a replacement. Mine was gas only, and did not work
properly. Since I wanted to keep the interior appearance close to original,
I sent the fridge to my father in Florida and had it repaired. They could
not repair the gas valve etc., so they changed the system over to electric.
Works great now. Be sure to check the tires for sidewall rot. It would be
very rare to have the tread worn, but they do rot because of the UV rays.
Rot will look like a lot of small cracks in the sidewalls. I would also
have them put water in the system and check for leaks. The line aft of the
water heater that goes to the rear sink is particularly prone to freezing
and cracking. It runs by the tub and is difficult to get to if you need to
replace it. Because of the location it doesn't naturally drain unless air
pressure is applied. You will have to change the LP tanks next year to
comply with new laws. Mine didn't have a converter in it, so I had to rely
on battery power for the 12V items (water pump, furnace, some lights) - not
a good situation for long-term use. A converter will cost a couple of
hundred dollars. The guide identified on a previous mail looks like a good
guide. I would recommend that you decide what the trailer will be worth to
you after you purchase it and change or fix anything for your use. Estimate
the cost of that work and add to the asking price. If they come out close,
go for it. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any other
questions.
Pete
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Majorie Smallfield
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 2:58 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] 1960 22" Safari
Hello All:
My husband and I are looking at a 1960 22" Safari. We found one a couple of
miles from our house and approached the owners. They would like to get rid
of it and we would like to have it. They will be calling with the price.
Does anyone own one of these from 1960 out there? Please tell us what we
need to look at if we like their price. They say everything worked last
time they used it which was about 4 years ago. They drained all the fluids
and just parked it. Would anyone like to venture a price...? It looks like
everything is original, wood, original bathroom, refrigerator is gas, stove
looks good. Any help would be great. I love this list you all know so much
and share it freely. Thanks.
Margie
Michigan
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