VACList-Digest Monday, August 6, 2001 Issue 23
Today's Topics:
1. Re: 1960 22" Safari
2. Re: Furnace Recall
3. Re: 1960 22" Safari
4. Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
5. Re: 1960 22" Safari
6. Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
7. Interior wall Templates
8. Re: Water Heater Replacement
9. Re: Furnace Recall
10. Re: Jalousie windows
11. Re: Furnace Recall
12. Re: Interior wall Templates
13. Re: Original paint on cast nameplate by door/Window Q
14. Re: AC Is Installed
15. Re: Interior wall Templates
16. Re: Test
17. Re: Furnace Recall
18. Re: [A/S] I-70
19. Re: Furnace Recall
20. Re: Water Heater Replacement
21. Re: Furnace Recall
22. Re: Furnace Recall
23. Re: Furnace Recall
24. Majestic Mt. Baker Rally
25. Re: Furnace Recall
26. Colorado, here we come!
27. Re: [A/S] I-70
28. Pneumatic Cyclo "The Shinemasters"
29. hello from a newbie, help-belly pan repair
30. Water heater replacement
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 19:34:42 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1960 22" Safari
Margie, I'm not sure how you would go about deciding if you liked the
sellers price for a 1960 Safari without knowing the condition of the trailer
and all the appliances. Vintage trailers can have serious structural
problems that are difficult and expensive to fix. Water damaged floors are
not uncommon, for example. In addition, repairing or replacing plumbing can
be a chore if it's needed. Replacing the appliances is very expensive --
refrigerators, water heaters, furnaces, air conditioners (if so equipped),
etc.
All this is to suggest that you need to be sure what condition the trailer
is in to know if the price is reasonable and fair. It might be a bargain --
or it might be a headache. I recommend having the owners demonstrate that
all the trailer systems are functional by showing you that they all work. If
you can locate another vintage Airstream owner who would be willing to go
with you and help you evaluate the trailer, so much the better. A number of
new vintage owners have gotten burned by taking the seller's word that
everything works. A trailer deteriorates from non use and no regular
maintenance. Things can go wrong in four years of being stored.
You might also check the section on RJ's web site about evaluating vintage
Airstreams.
I hope it works out for you.
Regards,
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Majorie Smallfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 16:58
Subject: [VAC] 1960 22" Safari
> Hello All:
> My husband and I are looking at a 1960 22" Safari. We found one a couple
of
> miles from our house and approached the owners. They would like to get rid
> of it and we would like to have it. They will be calling with the price.
> Does anyone own one of these from 1960 out there? Please tell us what we
> need to look at if we like their price. They say everything worked last
> time they used it which was about 4 years ago. They drained all the
fluids
> and just parked it. Would anyone like to venture a price...? It looks like
> everything is original, wood, original bathroom, refrigerator is gas,
stove
> looks good. Any help would be great. I love this list you all know so much
> and share it freely. Thanks.
>
> Margie
> Michigan
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 18:30:45 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
Pete,
I've heard bits and pieces about this before. What make/model was
affected & do you remember what the problem was?
RJ
pryner wrote:
> I have a 1960 22' Safari. I picked it up about 9 years ago in New York for
> about $850, but it was closer to a basket case. One bit of advice I offer
> is that the original furnace had a recall on it many years ago and should
> not be used. Mine didn't work and I removed it to have someone look at it.
> When we queried about parts availability we were told about the recall. The
> most costly appliance is the refrigerator.
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 18:44:42 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1960 22" Safari
Margie -
I'm planning on heading out to Michigan after the Estes Park, CO VAC Rally
next weekend... If you'd like to contact me back-channel [
[EMAIL PROTECTED] ] with a way to contact you when i'm getting close, I
might be able to check it out with you...
Tuna
'48 Trailwind
WBCCI#8862/VAC
Reno, NV
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 21:48:37 -0400
From: "Dan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
I'm jealous.
My kids got me a '57 Chevy for my birthday a few years back.
Matchbox :)
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lorenz Weiss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> my trailer is a 1957 Airstream Custom (so says the plate near the door).
It is
> 22 feet long and seems to have been built as a Flying Cloud. The trailer
is in
> really "not so nice" condition, but I wanted a 1957 Airstream to put it
behind
> my '57 Chevy...and so I got it (and a lot of work also). But I think,
restoring
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 01 20:03:21 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1960 22" Safari
> They will be calling with the price.
>Does anyone own one of these from 1960 out there? Please tell us what we
>need to look at if we like their price.
==========
For what it is worth I suggest you decide what you want to invest in a
trailer including he purchase price. A 1960 model is going to take
some work and some money, including the purchase price. A vintage
trailer takes some investment and I would say you should expect to invest
as much in a vintage trailer as you would invest in a new trailer of the
same size. $6,000 to 8,000 is not out of the question if you want to get
it in shape to be of comfortable service to you. I am also assuming you
can do some of the work yourself. I wouldn't count on any of the
applicances working, at least for very long, and replacemetn is probably
at better investment then repair.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 01 20:09:38 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1957 Custom / newbie questions
>my trailer is a 1957 Airstream Custom (so says the plate near the door).
>It is
>22 feet long and seems to have been built as a Flying Cloud. The trailer
>is in
>really "not so nice" condition, but I wanted a 1957 Airstream to put it
>behind
>my '57 Chevy...and so I got it (and a lot of work also). But I think,
>restoring
>can be fun (and it really is fun for me!).
==============
Congrats on your purchase. I did a rebuild on a 16' 1956 Bubble year or
so ago and it was a lot of work but also a enjoyable project. We are
enjoying the results. We really rebuilt the unit as opposed to
restoring. My web site may give you some suggestions.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 22:27:38 -0400
From: Mike Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Interior wall Templates
Hi VAC List!
Does anyone know if there is a template available for getting
the correct curve of the interior walls for my 56 Cruiser Overlander? My
Airstream is 90% gutted and I will be rebuilding the majority of the
interior. I have seen many floor plans for vintage Airstreams, but I have
found no info so far on the template question. Recently I made an old school
bus into an RV. While I was able to get the interior wall curve on the
inside of the bus close, It was not a perfect fit, and I want the walls in
my Airstream to fit exactly. Any help or tips on this procedure would be
greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
Mike Anderson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 20:17:59 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Replacement
A few thoughts on remove/replace of the old Bowen water heater....
First, we have a '64 Globetrotter and my knowledge is limited to it. I have
removed and replaced the water heater with the interior cabinets removed. If
I were replacing the water heater with the cabinets installed I would
recommend that you first REMOVE THE FLOOR OF THE WARDROBE CLOSET. By doing
so you can more or less get to all sides of that pesky interior flashing. It
is also much easier to see what you are doing to re-plumb the lines and
provide support for the new heater. Making a new cabinet floor (and any
required support ledgers) is a relatively simple project and requires no
wood refinishing (and you can attach the new wardrobe floor with screws for
later access). If your configuration dose not have a wardrobe closet above
the water heater and you are working to remove it with one side of the
interior blind (and cannot remove the metal strips), I would bash in the
soft thin metal shell of the old water heater (there is fiberglass
underneath) before using brute force to pull it through the opening.
I read a story of two young laborers who spent two days bringing an old cast
iron bath tub down three flights of stairs. When they couldn't lift it up
over the edge of the dumpster they asked the superintendent for some help.
He grabbed a sledge hammer and in a couple minutes and broke it up into
small pieces that were easily tossed in. The laborers were speechless. He
said "If you don't know how, ask first".
The Airstream List is an excellent place to float an idea for a future
project. There is always somebody out there who has tried the same thing (or
something similar) before. Talk is cheap, and who knows, it might even
generate a solution!
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 23:16:23 -0400
From: Richard Hales <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
RJ & Krista wrote:
> Pete,
> I've heard bits and pieces about this before. What make/model was
> affected & do you remember what the problem was?
> RJ
>
Hi all: This is Richard in Mid-Michigan.I have a letter from
Airstream dated APRIL 1990, that states that on two previous occasions
(1977 and 1981) in cooperation with the National Highway Traffic
Administrarion, Suburban Manufacturing Company provided owners with
furnace notifications that were prepared and sent in accordance with
applicable requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety
Act. The notices were titled recall 77E-012 and recall 81E-015.
A possible defect relating to motor vehicle safety may exist in some
recreational vehicles which contain furnace models NT-17, NT-20, NT-22,
and NT-30, all suffixes except M, having serial numbers between 0064881
and 0715865. The potentially affected furnaces were installed by
Airstream in trailers manufactured between 1966 and 1976.
The nature of the potential hazard is that under some conditions the
connector tube (part no. 070298 or 070206) located between the intake
air blower and the combustion chamber may crack through and separate.
Tube separation may allow carbon monoxide to enter the inside areas of
the vehicle.
This may not be the recall that you are looking for, but this is the
only one I have heard of.
Richard
WBCCI 22886 VAC
Hoping to help---not just lurk!
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 21:31:04 -0600
From: jere potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jalousie windows
Hey Susan- good to hear from you! I love my Jalousie windows, especially
since they let in a lot of air, and don't swing up & out for one to hit
their head on, like I have a scar to prove it. I was able to find the
material you are talking about at a local glass shop, bought about 20 feet
a couple of years ago. I haven't really installed it yet, due to 2 slight
problems: 1. The backing is a flexible nylon , and is just slightly wider
than the track- I could trim it down by hand when I have the time, also
some silicone spray would help to push it up in there. The old material
was on a rigid aluminum backing, which pulled out easily. (I did just
one). 2. The bristles on the seals were just also a little too long- I had
some luck cropping them with some good scissors, til my wife confiscated
her good sewing shears. So, I am kinda holding off until I have one of the
whole windows removed to rebuild it on a bench top, which would be easier.
I think the name of the shop was Fort Collins Glass- I could check to see
it they still carry it, maybe mail you a sample. Let me know. I will be
searching for the plastic window glazing strips this week, so I may be in
there.
I did restrip the whole trailer with a EPDM seal I got at Walmart- It is
about a 1/4 inch wide, has a "d" profile, and comes as two strips together
that you peel apart. Self adhesive backing, with peel off tape. Most
places I have it, it still works fine, some places it has come loose,
probably because I had not cleaned well enough with alcohol to get a good
self stick. Other people have mentioned they don't; like this material.
It was better than what I replaced, I worked it into the channel with a
narrow screwdriver to get it to hold. Good luck with your project- I let
you know if I can find more locally.
Jere Potter '64 Safari, '64 Globetrotter, Ft Collins CO
Susan Altstatt wrote:
> All, and in particular Jere Potter;
>
> I'm reworking my jalousie windows on my 64 Safari, and
> need a source of the slide-in side seals.
>
> Some time ago Jere Potter mentioned finding the slip-in side seals
> at a glass shop. Jere, if you're still out there,
> could you please tell me the name of the glass shop where
> you found yours? I haven't been able to find them yet.
> The glass shop I was in this morning had never seen anything
> like it.
>
> Also, did you replace the horizontal rubber extrusion seals
> at the top
> and bottom? (the ones the top pane and bottom pane close against).
>
> Thank You,
>
> Susan Altstatt
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 21:35:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
I've tasted that CO in my SOB that I no longer turn on the furnace. A
rotting floor sped up the separation of the stack to vent the furnace
inside. The furnace in my Caravel is so suspect I use only electric
heat.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 21:36:22 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interior wall Templates
Look up a book on installing kitchen cabinets, and see the section on
scribing to fit.
Basically you cut the pattern or cabinet roughly, put it roughly in
position, then take a compass (school type with sharp point and pencil)
to mark the scribe line. You open the legs of the compass to the maximum
horizontal spacing between the wall and the cabinet or template, then
holding that spacing you draw a line on the template while holding the
compass level and the sharp point against the wall as you go up or down
the wall. Since the wall may vary, you get the best fit by scribing each
cabinet or panel that is to contact the wall. Use the template to get
close but leave extra wood to sand to the final fit. With care you can
make a perfect fit.
If the fit is within 1/8" or so, you can use a round pencil laying
against the wall to make the trim line on the cabinet or panel, but you
can fit small details with the compass.
http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/countrtx.html has pictures showing
scribing applied to counter tops. I did a google search on "scribing a
cabinet" (without the quotes). Had 726 hits, some with detailed text
taken from magazines, referring to pictures, but neglecting to show the
pictures.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:43:53 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Original paint on cast nameplate by door/Window Q
--part1_8c.a839d9f.289f6c79_boundary
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Try Inland RV Service
391 Elizabeth Lane
Corona CA 91720 Ph 909 734-8132
I purchased some for my 69. Original not made any longer. They will advise
what may or may not work. Might ask for a catalog.
1800 877 7311
WBCCI 10212
--part1_8c.a839d9f.289f6c79_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Try Inland RV Service
<BR>391 Elizabeth Lane
<BR>Corona CA 91720 Ph 909 734-8132
<BR>
<BR>I purchased some for my 69. Original not made any longer. They will advise
<BR>what may or may not work. Might ask for a catalog.
<BR>
<BR> 1800 877 7311
<BR> WBCCI 10212</FONT></HTML>
--part1_8c.a839d9f.289f6c79_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:43:51 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: AC Is Installed
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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Hey Ed,
Sounds about like my exp. I also put quite a dent im my yard.
Gald it works for you!
69 A/S Overlander WBCCI 10212
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hey Ed,
<BR> Sounds about like my exp. I also put quite a dent im my
yard.
<BR>
<BR> Gald it works for you!
<BR>
<BR> 69 A/S Overlander WBCCI 10212
<BR></FONT></HTML>
--part1_a3.19ce7fa3.289f6c77_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 21:44:40 -0600
From: jere potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interior wall Templates
One suggestion I tried once with good results was a piece of Aluminum
(whatelse?) foil, that can be shaped to fit into the curve, then transferred to
a pattern board. Just keep scrunching the leading edge to fit, and you'll have
a somewhat solid curve.
Jer Potter.
Mike Anderson wrote:
> Hi VAC List!
> Does anyone know if there is a template available for getting
> the correct curve of the interior walls for my 56 Cruiser Overlander? My
> Airstream is 90% gutted and I will be rebuilding the majority of the
> interior. I have seen many floor plans for vintage Airstreams, but I have
> found no info so far on the template question. Recently I made an old school
> bus into an RV. While I was able to get the interior wall curve on the
> inside of the bus close, It was not a perfect fit, and I want the walls in
> my Airstream to fit exactly. Any help or tips on this procedure would be
> greatly appreciated!
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Mike Anderson
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 21:51:36 -0700
From: "Vanessa Dillon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Test
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Welcome Aboard Dave,
Yes you corectly got on the VAC list.
Vanessa=20
The Trailer Lady
'56 overlander
----- Original Message -----=20
From: DMH=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 6:36 AM
Subject: [VAC] Test
Hello,
I am new to this and wanted to see if I am doing this correctly. =
Thanks, Dave
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Welcome Aboard Dave,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes you corectly got on the VAC list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Vanessa </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The Trailer Lady</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'56 overlander</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>DMH</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 05, 2001 =
6:36=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Test</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to this and wanted to see if =
I am doing=20
this correctly. Thanks, =
Dave</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:08:45 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
I believe that my '60 Overlander was covered by this recall. I wish I knew
more but I was just a kid at the time. I do remember that the furnace was
replaced because it was not safe. This would of been in the late 60's I
think. Perhaps the very early 70's. The replacement furnace lasted until '99
when it started pumping out CO.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "RJ & Krista" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Furnace Recall
> Pete,
> I've heard bits and pieces about this before. What make/model was
> affected & do you remember what the problem was?
> RJ
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 22:23:44 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] I-70
I'm heading out to Estes Park from Reno in a day or two, with an untested
rig... decided to take I-80 to Laramie and head down to Colorado from
there... Never done that route before - any surprises?
Tuna
'48 Trailwind
WBCCI#8862/VAC
Reno, NV
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 05:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
I've got a recall notice from 1960 in my files.
The notice I have covers the "Thurm" Furnace and as I
remember, is was the model that was too small to be
used in Airstreams.
I'll scan it tonight if anyone is interested...
Toby
--- Scott Scheuermann
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I believe that my '60 Overlander was covered by this
> recall. I wish I knew
> more but I was just a kid at the time. I do remember
> that the furnace was
> replaced because it was not safe. This would of been
> in the late 60's I
> think. Perhaps the very early 70's. The replacement
> furnace lasted until '99
> when it started pumping out CO.
>
> Scott
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:21:57 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Replacement
Good suggestion. Thanks very much. I did consider removing the floor of the
cabinet above the water heater but that area seemed pretty small on my
Tradewind. I did not consider bashing in the side of the old water heater
(proving two or more heads are better than one). I would have been able to
reach the side toward the back of the trailer but not the other side. I
might have been able to figure out a bashing method even though there's no
room underneath the lavatory to swing a hammer, for instance.
Moral of this story -- be patient. I might have waited longer for some
responses to my request for information and suggestions on a suitable way to
remove an old Bowen tank based on the experience of others who had
previously done so.
Regards,
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Globetrotter64" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 23:17
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Replacement
> A few thoughts on remove/replace of the old Bowen water heater....
>
> First, we have a '64 Globetrotter and my knowledge is limited to it. I
have
> removed and replaced the water heater with the interior cabinets removed.
If
> I were replacing the water heater with the cabinets installed I would
> recommend that you first REMOVE THE FLOOR OF THE WARDROBE CLOSET. By doing
> so you can more or less get to all sides of that pesky interior flashing.
It
> is also much easier to see what you are doing to re-plumb the lines and
> provide support for the new heater. Making a new cabinet floor (and any
> required support ledgers) is a relatively simple project and requires no
> wood refinishing (and you can attach the new wardrobe floor with screws
for
> later access). If your configuration dose not have a wardrobe closet above
> the water heater and you are working to remove it with one side of the
> interior blind (and cannot remove the metal strips), I would bash in the
> soft thin metal shell of the old water heater (there is fiberglass
> underneath) before using brute force to pull it through the opening.
>
> I read a story of two young laborers who spent two days bringing an old
cast
> iron bath tub down three flights of stairs. When they couldn't lift it up
> over the edge of the dumpster they asked the superintendent for some help.
> He grabbed a sledge hammer and in a couple minutes and broke it up into
> small pieces that were easily tossed in. The laborers were speechless. He
> said "If you don't know how, ask first".
>
> The Airstream List is an excellent place to float an idea for a future
> project. There is always somebody out there who has tried the same thing
(or
> something similar) before. Talk is cheap, and who knows, it might even
> generate a solution!
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:31:22 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
Richard, what was the "fix" recommended by Suburban and/or Airstream? Sounds
like installing a CO monitor at the least or replacing the furnace with one
reengineered around the problem.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind & Suburban NT-22
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Hales" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 23:16
Subject: [VAC] Re: Furnace Recall
>
> Hi all: This is Richard in Mid-Michigan.I have a letter from
> Airstream dated APRIL 1990, that states that on two previous occasions
> (1977 and 1981) in cooperation with the National Highway Traffic
> Administrarion, Suburban Manufacturing Company provided owners with
> furnace notifications that were prepared and sent in accordance with
> applicable requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety
> Act. The notices were titled recall 77E-012 and recall 81E-015.
> A possible defect relating to motor vehicle safety may exist in some
> recreational vehicles which contain furnace models NT-17, NT-20, NT-22,
> and NT-30, all suffixes except M, having serial numbers between 0064881
> and 0715865. The potentially affected furnaces were installed by
> Airstream in trailers manufactured between 1966 and 1976.
> The nature of the potential hazard is that under some conditions the
> connector tube (part no. 070298 or 070206) located between the intake
> air blower and the combustion chamber may crack through and separate.
> Tube separation may allow carbon monoxide to enter the inside areas of
> the vehicle.
> This may not be the recall that you are looking for, but this is the
> only one I have heard of.
> Richard
> WBCCI 22886 VAC
> Hoping to help---not just lurk!
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 09:39:33 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
At 08:31 AM 8/6/01 -0400, Jim Greene wrote:
>Richard, what was the "fix" recommended by Suburban and/or Airstream? Sounds
>like installing a CO monitor at the least or replacing the furnace with one
>reengineered around the problem.
>
>Jim Greene
>' 68 Tradewind & Suburban NT-22
For that particular recall, the fix was simply to replace a rubber
hose that runs between the intake blower and the combustion chamber- the
original could split, and the replacement is much heavier (I *think* that
the official replacement has a red stripe on it).
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 09:56:27 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
Chris, that sounds like there may have been other recalls on Suburban
furnaces. I think I'll check their web site to see if I'm affected.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 9:39
Subject: [VAC] Re: Furnace Recall
> At 08:31 AM 8/6/01 -0400, Jim Greene wrote:
> >Richard, what was the "fix" recommended by Suburban and/or Airstream?
Sounds
> >like installing a CO monitor at the least or replacing the furnace with
one
> >reengineered around the problem.
> >
> >Jim Greene
> >' 68 Tradewind & Suburban NT-22
>
>
> For that particular recall, the fix was simply to replace a
rubber
> hose that runs between the intake blower and the combustion chamber- the
> original could split, and the replacement is much heavier (I *think* that
> the official replacement has a red stripe on it).
>
>
> ________
>
> Chris Bryant
original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 07:34:27 -0700
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Majestic Mt. Baker Rally
To all that plan on attending the Mt. Baker rally next week in
Washington state here's directions to the site.
The rally is at the Deming Log Show grounds. To get there travel on I-5
to exit #255 in Bellingham, WA. This is the Sunset Drive/Mt. Baker Hwy
exit. Also known as state route #542. Travel east towards Mt. Baker
until you pass mile marker #9. Then at the bottom of a hill turn left
onto Cedarville Road. (This is well marked.) Then in about a mile you
will see the Deming Log Show grounds on your left. We will be camped in
the back away from the little country road.
If anyone has questions about the rally please e-mail me directly.
Thank you,
Pat Ewing
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:04:29 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Recall
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Greene <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I think I'll check their web site to see if I'm affected.
>
> Jim Greene
What is their we site address. Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 07:59:39 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Colorado, here we come!
We're going on digest mode now as we leave for Estes Park and the rally.
Bob and I will caravan from Arizona, and hope to arrive by noon on
Wednesday.
CU there....Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 12:43:55 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] I-70
No surprises...nice route.
- Dick
(5368)
At 10:23 PM 8/5/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm heading out to Estes Park from Reno in a day or two, with an untested
>rig... decided to take I-80 to Laramie and head down to Colorado from
>there... Never done that route before - any surprises?
>
>Tuna
>'48 Trailwind
>WBCCI#8862/VAC
>Reno, NV
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
"When I was fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to
have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished
at how much he had learned in seven years." - Mark Twain
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 13:10:26 -0400
From: Enrico Bottieri <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Pneumatic Cyclo "The Shinemasters"
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
><
Pneumatic Cylclo Polisher Info:
You need a very large Commercial Air Compressor to run the Pneumatic
Cyclo polisher. The electric model works fine when used in the right way.
We polish aircraft & Airstreams to a high luster.
I will try to answer any simple questions on polishing your trailer.
Enrico Bottieri "The Shinemasters" Southern California 714
964-4864
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 14:44:15 -0400
From: "Russ Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: hello from a newbie, help-belly pan repair
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C11E86.440DF1A0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We just joined VAC...the thought that other people are restoring these =
trailers is encouraging ! We "rescued" our 1971 Safari on July 4th, 2001 =
and the work needed is almost as bad as the "Dave and Karla" one pulled =
from the "swamp"on the vintage airstream site. I have been almost living =
in the thing, working on it. And if I am not inside it , I am out =
buying things for it. We are going to customize it rather than restore, =
an agonizing decision but there is just too much to be done. The mice =
and squirrels were partying in there for alot of years. In fact, some of =
them died in there ! The dead mice made me squemish but when I lifted up =
the foam mattress and found the decaying squirrel...I had to have my =
husband get that. I have six (yes, six) sons and they were fascinated =
but I was not amused. I have a baby daughter too, but she is too little =
to care about any mortician duty. Between the plywood floor and the =
belly pan was six inches of solid mice nests, made from insulation they =
chewed and about one billion shredded pinecones. I removed six garbage =
bags of it and now there is just the belly pan showing( we ripped up the =
floor too ). Don't worry, I disinfected everything that is left, which =
is axles, frame, and skin, (just kidding , but almost !)
Question : The belly pan on our trailer is in holey shape. We dropped =
it off, cleaned it , new insulation, etc..etc.. and washer/tec screw to =
put it back on. Problem is now the holes, here , there , and =
everywhere. All kinds of sizes and places. Like one the size of my hand =
right in the middle of the sheet metal. Lots of bent places along the =
banana wrap where it gaps. Do we patch it with a piece of aluminum and =
then vulkem it ? Will vulkem cover a two inch gap between the belly =
pan and the banana wrap ? If I really glop lots on ? I DON"T want the =
MICE back ! =20
Thanks, Carrie Welch
------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C11E86.440DF1A0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We just joined VAC...the thought that =
other people=20
are restoring these trailers is encouraging ! We "rescued" our 1971 =
Safari=20
on July 4th, 2001 and the work needed is almost as bad as the "Dave and =
Karla"=20
one pulled from the "swamp"on the vintage airstream site. I have =
been=20
almost living in the thing, working on it. And if I am not inside =
it , I=20
am out buying things for it. We are going to customize it rather =
than=20
restore, an agonizing decision but there is just too much to be =
done. The=20
mice and squirrels were partying in there for alot of years. In=20
fact, some of them died in there ! The dead mice made me =
squemish but=20
when I lifted up the foam mattress and found the decaying squirrel...I =
had to=20
have my husband get that. I have six (yes, six) sons and they were =
fascinated but I was not amused. I have a baby daughter too, but=20
she is too little to care about any mortician=20
duty. Between the plywood floor and the belly =
pan was=20
six inches of solid mice nests, made from insulation they chewed and =
about one=20
billion shredded pinecones. I removed six garbage bags of it and =
now there=20
is just the belly pan showing( we ripped up the floor=20
too ). Don't worry, I disinfected everything that is =
left, which=20
is axles, frame, and skin, (just kidding , but almost !)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Question : The belly pan on =
our trailer is in holey shape. We dropped it off, =
cleaned it ,=20
new insulation, etc..etc.. and washer/tec screw to put it back on. =
Problem=20
is now the holes, here , there , and everywhere. All kinds of =
sizes and=20
places. Like one the size of my hand right in the middle of the sheet=20
metal. Lots of bent places along the banana wrap where it =
gaps. Do=20
we patch it with a piece of aluminum and then vulkem it ? =
Will=20
vulkem cover a two inch gap between the belly pan and the banana wrap =
? If=20
I really glop lots on ? I DON"T want the MICE back ! =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, Carrie =
Welch</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C11E86.440DF1A0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 17:07:11 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Water heater replacement
Hi folks:
Has anyone tried replacing their water heater with a European style
"on demand" tankless water heater like Aquastar made by Bosch/Controlled
Energy Corp? They have a small model (Model 36b) used for RVs, cabins that
runs on LP that retails between $360 and $441. There is more info on these
w/h at their website <A HREF="http://www.cechot.com/";>Controlled Energy
Corp. - Common Sense Heat & Hot Water Technology</A> cechot.com and
elsewhere on the net. I've got an old electric replacement w/h that is
unreliable and I'm ready to replace.
John Woodburn
Pasadena, CA
1958 A/S Flying Cloud, 22ft
#11942
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #23
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