VACList-Digest Monday, August 27, 2001 Issue 44
Today's Topics:
1. Polyethylene Tank Repair
2. Re: Fuses
3. Re: Fuses
4. Re: Polishing Question
5. Re: 1965 Black tank
6. VACList Office
7. Re: Black clippy things
8. Refrigerator Question
9. Re: Black clippy things
10. Re: Polyethylene Tank Repair
11. Re: 1965 Black tank
12. Re: Refrigerator Question
13. Re:
14. Re: Refrigerator Question
15. Re:
16. Hitch info I found while looking for something else.
17. Re: Gel Coat Bathroom Component fascia?
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Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 19:30:09 -0500
From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Polyethylene Tank Repair
Dr. J,
Thanks for your reply which, as always, puts the subject to rest.
Harvey
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 1965 Black tank
> I gave up trying to stick stuff to polyethylene about 20 years ago.
> the reason it cracked was that over the decades the plasticizes (e.g.
softeners) have leached out
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 20:35:17 -0400
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fuses
The AGU-40 and AGU-50 fuses are made by Bussman. The dimensions (as
measured) are 0.402" diameter X 1.500" long.
Lincoln Soule
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 18:48:02 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fuses
But those won't fit a holder that's made for AGC that are only 1/4"
diameter...
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 18:56:01 -0600
From: johansen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polishing Question
What kind of polish are you using. Should only require a once per year
touch up
Ken Johansen
59 Traveler
At 04:26 PM 8/25/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> How do I keep the shine once it's done?
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 17:39:23 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1965 Black tank
I don't know if they still make the stuff, but there used to be a compound,
in stick form, that we used to repair/fill scrapes in ski bottoms. Melted it
and filled the damaged area, then scraped off the excess.
Seems like it might work, since it took a lot of pounding after the repair.
But, since it has been a couple of eons since I skied, maybe they don't make
it anymore. Might check with a local ski shop.
OT: Thanks for the sample of Arabica coffee at the RM Rally. We'll be
ordering more when this runs out. Really nice to meet all of you.
Bob Hightower '76 31' Sov
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Jodi Guerin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 12:28 PM
Subject: [VAC] 1965 Black tank
> Hey guys,
> I know last year sometime we had a discussion about the possibilities of
> welding cracks in a black tank. Does anyone know if a black tank from
1965
> is made of something fixable?
> Jodi & John Guerin
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 18:14:24 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: VACList Office
The ListOffice website page is functional once again for those needing
to change their VACList subscription settings:
http://airstream.org/vaclist/listoffice.html
RJ
VAC Webmaster
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 21:21:50 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black clippy things
OOO Bobby. I too have a '73 Ambassador. I have no idea about the Black
Clippy Things, I have all mine.
Try:
OAsis RV 1800-658-5863
Charlie Burke 1800-345-6651
I would really appreciate a picture of what your under sink area looks
like. A new Furnace was put in and all that area is rearranged.
Also what do you have for the cover to the screen door handle hole ?
go see:
http://www.tiac.net/users/aspix/airstream3.html
for pictures of mine.
Daisy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 21:52:21 -0400
From: "Majorie Smallfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Refrigerator Question
My husband and I have a 1970 23' Safari AS. We have owned it one week. We
are trying to figure out all the appliances and were told that the Dometic
refrigerator does not work. We decided to give it a try just in case they
were wrong. We were able to get the gas going and ran it for about 4 hours.
The temp never got colder than 50 degrees. It did form some ice cubes in the
freezer. We then turned off the gas and plugged it in and nothing happened.
What we are wondering is could there be a fuse or some simple thing wrong in
the electricity as we did find some life in the old gal via the gas route.
We also turned on the furnace and it works. Now I am worrying about the
safety of a 31 year old furnace as far as dangerous fumes go. I guess there
is always something to worry about.
Anyway, if someone can shed some light on the refrigerator it will be
appreciated Thanks,
Margie and John
23' 1970 Safari
Michigan
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 22:08:05 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black clippy things
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks I'll give them a call.
Sure wish I had a digital camera. Would love to share some photos with ot=
hers who have a '73 Ambassador.
I have checked out Daisy's, it's sharp. As for the area on mine under the=
sink, actually forward. The converter was replaced at some time with a r=
eal nice Intelli-Power, but I want to change it around a little and put i=
t on a slide out drawer/shelf to have better access to it. On the screen =
door to cover the handle? Oh I got a cheap ole piece of plastic that fall=
s out every time you close the darn thing. That's another project for lat=
er. I want to change it to the same setup as on the '66 Ambassador, which=
has a metal door that is held closed by a roller catch. =20
Bobby
=20
----- Original Message -----
=20
OOO Bobby. I too have a '73 Ambassador. I have no idea about the Black
Clippy Things, I have all mine.
Try:
OAsis RV 1800-658-5863
Charlie Burke 1800-345-6651
I would really appreciate a picture of what your under sink area looks
like. A new Furnace was put in and all that area is rearranged.
Also what do you have for the cover to the screen door handle hole ?
go see:
http://www.tiac.net/users/aspix/airstream3.html
for pictures of mine.
Daisy
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C12E7B.950D0C80
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Thanks I'll gi=
ve them a call.</DIV> <DIV>Sure wish I had a digital camera. Would love t=
o share some photos with others who have a '73 Ambassador.</DIV> <DI=
V>I have checked out Daisy's, it's sharp. As for the area on mine un=
der the sink, actually forward. The converter was replaced at some time w=
ith a real nice Intelli-Power, but I want to change it around a litt=
le and put it on a slide out drawer/shelf to have better access to it. On=
the screen door to cover the handle? Oh I got a cheap ole piece of plast=
ic that falls out every time you close the darn thing. That's another pro=
ject for later. I want to change it to the same setup as on the '66 Ambas=
sador, which has a metal door that is held closed by a roller catch. </DI=
V> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=
=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:=
#000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">-=
---- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT=
: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV>OOO Bobby. I to=
o have a '73 Ambassador. I have no idea about the Black<BR>Clippy Things,=
I have all mine.<BR><BR>Try:<BR><BR>OAsis RV 1800-658-5863<BR>Charlie Bu=
rke 1800-345-6651<BR><BR>I would really appreciate a picture of what your=
under sink area looks<BR>like. A new Furnace was put in and all that are=
a is rearranged.<BR><BR>Also what do you have for the cover to the screen=
door handle hole ?<BR><BR>go see:<BR>http://www.tiac.net/users/aspix/air=
stream3.html<BR><BR>for pictures of mine.<BR><BR>Daisy<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOT=
E></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C12E7B.950D0C80--
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 21:16:06 -0400
From: "Chris Elliot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Tank Repair
> I have had success using 3m 5200 slow cure urethane marine caulk on poly ,
where its not stressed to bad . Thats what they use to put fittings in boat
tanks around here .
Chris -
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 22:29:17 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1965 Black tank
One brand of plastic used to fix the bottom of skiis is "P tex". It came in a
stick and looked like hot wax sticks. It was melted onto the skiis then
scraped down smooth. It might work?
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 22:02:34 -0500
From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Question
Margie,
I recently went through a failed refrigerator experience and will share what
little I learned.
One, it is possible for the refrigerator to work on gas but not electricity.
Gas or electricity simply provide heat which makes the cooling process work.
If it works on one, the cooling unit is probably okay but either the gas
burner or electric heater is bad.
Two, it may take more than four hours to reach its minimum temperature. You
might try again and let it run for 24 hours.
Three, the temperature in the box will always be about 30 degrees warmer
than the freezer. This means that the freezer must reach and maintain
pretty close to zero degrees in order to keep the box at a temperature which
will preserve food.
Four, components like leaking door gaskets can prevent adequate cooling.
Five, dirty coils on the back of the unit or blocked vents could prevent
cooling.
Six, the refrigerators are replaceable. Dometic makes new units of a
similar size. Discount RV retailers such as Camping World sell replacements
for less than $1,000. Not cheap, but affordable.
Seven, replacement refrigerators usually turn out to be a wiser investment
than repair or replacement of "cooling units." The refrigerator I recently
replaced had a new cooling unit installed by the previous owner about three
or four years ago. It failed again.
The one I just replaced would cool to about 12 degrees in the freezer, but
would not cool below 48 degrees in the box. It would make ice cubes just
fine but food spoiled.
Harvey
----- Original Message -----
From: Majorie Smallfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 8:52 PM
Subject: [VAC] Refrigerator Question
1970 23' Safari AS. the Dometic
> refrigerator does not work. ran it for about 4 hours.
> The temp never got colder than 50 degrees.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 23:20:54 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 8/26/01 4:39:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 22:21:29 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FUSES
Hi Polly
Glad you got everything working!!! When they meantioned on the emails that
RV Parts & Accessories 2001 catalog I decieded to browse through mine just
for fun. On page 213 it has fuses
It lists the following 40 AMP fuses
AGC-40 40 AMP $1.89
AGS-40 40 AMP $1.79
AGU-40 40 AMP $1.09
>>
Excellent, thanks for the info!!
Me
64 GT
59's gone
other 59's gone
65 TW
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 21:39:40 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Question
My dual energy refrigerators have a manual switch that fits into a notch
in the gas control knob to turn on the electric heater. It doesn't
switch automatically. There could be a fuse, though likely its a circuit
breaker, its probably 120 volts, not 12 volts. And the electric heater
could be faulty. Could be a wiring problem too.
I have no trust in a 31 year old RV furnace. Have been given CO from a
younger one. It was a good thing I had the roads all to myself about 4
AM coming home from the farm, because I needed 24 feet of road to drive
on. I had installed a new CO detector and a new smoke alarm the day
before and they woke me up. I've not turned that furnace on again. And I
won't.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 20:36:32 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
The better of those 59's went to me. Can't wait to get it looking sharp.
Looking for the rectangular vent cover, any ideas out there besides
Inland RV?
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 23:20:54 EDT
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
> Me
> 64 GT
> 59's gone
> other 59's gone
> 65 TW
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 01:18:57 -0500
From: Bob Basques <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Hitch info I found while looking for something else.
Might be of interest to some of you.
http://www.timberman.com/RIG/trailer%20hitch%20system%20comparisons.htm
--
http://64.33.167.222/
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Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 23:59:11 -0700
From: Tom Holden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Gel Coat Bathroom Component fascia?
While we have everything out of the interior for restoration, we're considering
changing the yellow color of rear bath components ( sink, tub, and toilet
section) of our 1968 Globetrotter to white. Thinking about gel coating. Does anyone
know what material these components are, and if gel coat is even an option?
We know the tub itself is fiberglass, but are wondering about the component fascia.
Lurking for over a year and thankful for it,
Tom & Laurie Holden
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #44
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