I find that the clear nylon sewing thread, either crystal clear or gray,
depending on the fly, is a great way to tie with Mono and all without the
hassle of rewinding it.  You can put it in a standard wide bobbin, like you
use for sea salt flies, and it works wonderfully.  Just the lazy person's
way of doing things. You can even get it ready to go in Walmart.  Joyce

On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Don Ordes <[email protected]> wrote:

> Orrrrr...
>
> If you don't want to tie with mono, you can still do the exact same thing
> by tying down a tag line of mono loaded on a spool or on a really tight
> clamp (to tension like a spool).
>
> Rope on the tag line and tie off with the normal thread. This is the same
> as if you would use a wire tag-line for extra weight and durability.  On a
> bugger, I just tie the whole fly with the wire.  On a small stonefly, I
> would use the tag approach.
>
> For juice-bugs and gap-wrap, mono and wire both do well.
>
> DonO
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Ordes" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 12:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [VFB] Re: Rope Dub Muscles
>
>
>  Chappy,
>>
>> If you have problems tying with mono, don't give up.  It takes a little
>> getting used to.
>> You need to make a much better anchor than with thread, and it doesn't
>> hurt to put a tad of cement on the anchor.  Being much stronger than thread,
>> you need a lot less wraps to tie the fly, and 2# test is enough to fend off
>> most trout teeth.  I have different lb.test monos from very fine to 6# test
>> spooled up, plus the Danville nylon threads.
>>
>> If you cut or break the mono under tension, the tendency is for it to back
>> out of the bobbin tube.  Stop this by putting a small piece of foam wedged
>> into the bottom end of the bobbin tube, to act as a clutch.  It's easy to
>> push out if you need to re-thread the bobbin.
>>
>> DonO
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chappy" <[email protected]>
>> To: "VFB Mail" <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:09 AM
>> Subject: [VFB] Re: Rope Dub Muscles
>>
>>
>> Uni-Mono Thin.  Broke it a few time when I overspun.  But no
>> problem.   I do not plan to respool 6 lb test however,
>>
>> BTW - how do you spool it without twisting?  I am sure you have some
>> line horror stories about respooling to the bobbin the first few
>> times...  I furl my own leaders with a power drill.   Now trying to do
>> that on a little spool?  yikes.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 23, 11:20 am, "Don Ordes" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> LOL. I get accused of having 'fat fingers' all the time, especially when
>>> I
>>> stack and pack hair mice. One friend said I could push a golf ball
>>> through
>>> a garden hose. LOL
>>>
>>> DVD#2 (if I do it) will have a bunch of roping segments with many furs-
>>> possum being one. There's tons of sub-techniques and tricks to making
>>> furs
>>> do the variety of looks they can do. It's a matter of seeing what a
>>> particular fur does by making the dubbing and rope many different ways.
>>> THEN you can tell if the results looks good on the fly design you're
>>> making.
>>> Don't have preconceived goals, like you said. You MAKE the dubbing do ITS
>>> thing. That make sense?
>>>
>>> Like the old quote goes- 85% of what a trout eats is 5/8" long, brown,
>>> and
>>> fuzzy. With that possum, you'll be able to tie a half-dozen
>>> different-looking brown and fuzzy flies just by selecting and
>>> manipulating
>>> the fur and the rope.
>>>
>>> Keep roping furs and your fingrs will get used to it. Remember, too, that
>>> various rope tensions play a part in segment shape when you wrap, and
>>> don't
>>> forget the rope compression aspect.
>>>
>>> Q? Are you tying with mono? This helps a great deal.
>>>
>>> DonO
>>>
>>
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