I had a problem with my two ton epoxy over the weekend. I was trying to epoxy a crease fly and it was so cold here it didn't want to mix well at all. I turned the bottles under warm running tap water to warm them up and they mixed very well after that. I think I remember a friend of mine that makes rods saying he warms the epoxy in the microwave when it starts to get thick too early (for a very short period of time). Does that sound right to you Tony? Deb ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 5:35 PM Subject: Re: [VFB] Epoxy mysteries
> > > Tom Davenport wrote: > > > > > > > Anyway, I'm building a couple more rods as well as eventually > > wrapping the new tip, and would like you to share any epoxy secrets. > > I know that equal amounts are required, and equal amounts were used > > with the batch that didn't cure. Why is it that the slow cure epoxy is > > so ?temperamental It seems like 55 minuteepoxy will cure if ANY > > mixing occurs. > > If the Epoxy or hardener has been exposed to cold for a long period, I > would get some new stuff to use. I have found this to be a problem. > For rod making I would not use the 5 minuet Epoxy for any part of it. > Use the 2 ton Epoxy. When mixing the two parts you will notice there > will be some clouded streaks in the mix. This is un mixed hardener and > epoxy. Stir till the whole mixture is clear > > > > > > > And if the worst occurs again, what is the best way to strip off > > partly cure epoxy? > > I find Denatured Alcohol removes uncured epoxy pretty good. So will > White Vinegar but it gets a lot messier. > The White vinegar will make a slimy white goo from the epoxy. If it > looks like the Epoxy will not set, get to it asap, it will be a lot > easier to remove. > Tony > > > > > > > Thanks, Tom > > > > > >
