This is helpful to me but a DVD with different materials would be even better - hint.
Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "DonO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 3:58 PM Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > No I don't have natural wax on my fingers. ;o) > > When I said any dubbing can be rope-dubbed, I didn't mean that all dubbings > roped identically to other types, or with exactly the same technique. (Bob > Haering's 'Dubbing from Hell' (Rainbow Bright)took some work to figure out a > roping technique, and so did the picric acid dyed mole hair.) Long strands > and short hairs will both rope easily if the technique is changed just a > bit. > > Start with longer synthetics for practice. And forget about getting the > dubbing to stick to the thread- that's the old way. You're trying to get > the dubbing to spin around the thread without spinning the thread itself. > This requires the dubbing be anchored- that's all. With long fibers, spin > away from the hook and let it tighten towards the hook. With short hairs > and furs, start roping closer to the hook, or even at the hook, and let the > material stretch out along the thread away from the hook as you rope. Keep > the thread tight- important- do not let it spin with the dubbing. That's > why mono thread works so well- dubbing WON'T stick to it. > > And rolling up a noodle will work with anything that will roll, but not all > dubbings will roll that way. Plus it's another unnecessary step. With all > bagged dubbings, I just pinch from the bag, anchor the tip fibers, rope, and > I am done. With hair/fur on the hide, I can cut a hank, anchor, rope, and I > am done. The amount of dubbing I pinch out is dictated by the size and > density of fly I am tying. Whether I tie the fur or hair tips or butts > down, or hand-blend the guard and underhair before anchoring, depends on the > look I want for the fly. > > The hardest thing about rope-dubbing is letting go of the old methods. It > is not a blend of techniques, and doing so makes roping much more difficult. > > And don't forget roping in a hackle, roping peacock, and using wire to tie > on. > > If you want me to cover the steps again, just let me know. > > Regards, > DonO > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael B. Bliss > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 2:39 AM > Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > > > Having watched and tried - I am now convinced DonO has wax naturally on his > fingers. He makes it look so easy and it was not for me. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 3:53 PM > Subject: [VFB] rope dub question > > > Well, I finally decided to try DonO's famous rope dub method. Thanks to the > vfb and Hans' websites with plenty of instructions. The method seems quite > simple but DonO claims any dubbing will work. I'm trying to use the rope > dub routine with shaved beaver (get your minds on tying flys boys!) which > has very short strands. This material does not lend itself to roping very > well but the claim is any dubbing will work. > > Can anyone explain to me the best method to extend the teardrop long enough > to rope a #16 mayfly? I'm also having a time trying to get poly dubbing to > "stick to the thread". My adventures are ending up with me pulling out the > rope and dubbing the usual way. Is there a secret to wrapping the rope > other than the counterclockwise twist? Are you sure I shouldn't add a bit > of wax to the thread? > > I know there was quite a thread on this a long while back but I was too busy > at my job to read all the posts. Now, I am desperately trying to learn this > confounded method for DonO's swap and my fingers just don't get it. > > Thanks! > > Murf >
