Good suggestions, I will.
----- Original Message ----- From: "DonO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 7:04 AM Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > Mike, > > Maybe a vhs one of these days, but the vfb'ers that have 'gotten it' can > tell you that it is really easy once mastered. It's sort of like learning > to ride a bike. Once you have it, you can't figure out why it was difficult > at all. > > And don't feel bad if it is difficult to master at first. Sometimes the > better tiers and master dubbers have a harder time, as they can't let go of > the notion of getting the dubbing to stick to the thread. Practice, > practice. Don't do a pattern until you have mastered the technique. Just > rope tail after tail with one type of dubbing until you have perfected it > and can vary it at will. Then your first fly with the method will be > perfect, and you'll then be amazed at the speed of the dubbing portion of > the fly. If you practice on a fly pattern, it will be frustrating because > of the time you're spending on the whole pattern trying to learn the > technique for just one part. > > Again, start with fine, long synthetics, like SLF or the superfine dry fly > dubbings. Then try blended naturals with longer fibers. Lastly, try the > short-hair stuff, like beaver, muskrat, and squirrel body. DON'T try > Rainbow Bright and mole hair. You WILL go insane. ;o) > > DonO > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael B. Bliss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 7:37 PM > Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > > > > This is helpful to me but a DVD with different materials would be even > > better - hint. > > > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "DonO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 3:58 PM > > Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > > > > > > > No I don't have natural wax on my fingers. ;o) > > > > > > When I said any dubbing can be rope-dubbed, I didn't mean that all > > dubbings > > > roped identically to other types, or with exactly the same technique. > > (Bob > > > Haering's 'Dubbing from Hell' (Rainbow Bright)took some work to figure > out > > a > > > roping technique, and so did the picric acid dyed mole hair.) Long > > strands > > > and short hairs will both rope easily if the technique is changed just a > > > bit. > > > > > > Start with longer synthetics for practice. And forget about getting the > > > dubbing to stick to the thread- that's the old way. You're trying to > get > > > the dubbing to spin around the thread without spinning the thread > itself. > > > This requires the dubbing be anchored- that's all. With long fibers, > spin > > > away from the hook and let it tighten towards the hook. With short > hairs > > > and furs, start roping closer to the hook, or even at the hook, and let > > the > > > material stretch out along the thread away from the hook as you rope. > > Keep > > > the thread tight- important- do not let it spin with the dubbing. > That's > > > why mono thread works so well- dubbing WON'T stick to it. > > > > > > And rolling up a noodle will work with anything that will roll, but not > > all > > > dubbings will roll that way. Plus it's another unnecessary step. With > > all > > > bagged dubbings, I just pinch from the bag, anchor the tip fibers, rope, > > and > > > I am done. With hair/fur on the hide, I can cut a hank, anchor, rope, > and > > I > > > am done. The amount of dubbing I pinch out is dictated by the size and > > > density of fly I am tying. Whether I tie the fur or hair tips or butts > > > down, or hand-blend the guard and underhair before anchoring, depends on > > the > > > look I want for the fly. > > > > > > The hardest thing about rope-dubbing is letting go of the old methods. > It > > > is not a blend of techniques, and doing so makes roping much more > > difficult. > > > > > > And don't forget roping in a hackle, roping peacock, and using wire to > tie > > > on. > > > > > > If you want me to cover the steps again, just let me know. > > > > > > Regards, > > > DonO > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Michael B. Bliss > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 2:39 AM > > > Subject: Re: [VFB] rope dub question > > > > > > > > > Having watched and tried - I am now convinced DonO has wax naturally on > > his > > > fingers. He makes it look so easy and it was not for me. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 3:53 PM > > > Subject: [VFB] rope dub question > > > > > > > > > Well, I finally decided to try DonO's famous rope dub method. Thanks to > > the > > > vfb and Hans' websites with plenty of instructions. The method seems > > quite > > > simple but DonO claims any dubbing will work. I'm trying to use the > rope > > > dub routine with shaved beaver (get your minds on tying flys boys!) > which > > > has very short strands. This material does not lend itself to roping > very > > > well but the claim is any dubbing will work. > > > > > > Can anyone explain to me the best method to extend the teardrop long > > enough > > > to rope a #16 mayfly? I'm also having a time trying to get poly dubbing > > to > > > "stick to the thread". My adventures are ending up with me pulling out > > the > > > rope and dubbing the usual way. Is there a secret to wrapping the rope > > > other than the counterclockwise twist? Are you sure I shouldn't add a > bit > > > of wax to the thread? > > > > > > I know there was quite a thread on this a long while back but I was too > > busy > > > at my job to read all the posts. Now, I am desperately trying to learn > > this > > > confounded method for DonO's swap and my fingers just don't get it. > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Murf > > > > > >
