Gary, You are tying what I would say "right handed". This is normally the way a right handed person would tie. It makes no difference, tie the best way you can. Just enjoy what you do. Tony
--- "Garry V. Wiles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Tony, > > I'm left handed and I tie the way I was > taught. As I sit and face the vice, the bend is > on the left and the eye on the right. I wrap > with my right hand and hold material with my left > hand. I'm just more dexterous that way. I > started with a Cortland tying kit and have > upgraded my vise to a Dan-Vise. I still use most > of the tools that came with the original kit and > have more bobbins that I care to admit, though my > favorite bobbins are the Rite bobbins. > > > Garry > > > At 09:31 AM 10/1/2006, you wrote: > >Nick has some good pointers, I well just add to > this. > >If you are tying right handed wrapping away from > you, > >to remove the twist, grasp the bobbin by the neck > and > >spin it "TOWARDS" the hook eye. This will untwist > the > >thread. If you are tying left handed towards you, > (I > >have seen this done)thread will untwist itself. > >Left handed tyers, If I am wrong, correct me. Most > >left handed tyers I have seen tie like right > handers. > >Now that should be a thread, left and right hand > >tyers. > >Tony > > > >--- Niclas Runarsson > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >wrote: > > > > > Chuck, > > > > > > Check out > > > > http://www.gudebrod.com/fishing2005/BorgerColor.htm > > > for an online > > > Borger Color System chart. > > > > > > Further info on your threads: > > > Your black 8/0 is a 67 Denier thread. Quite thin > > > compared to most other > > > manufacturers 8/0's. The fact that you have no > > > problem with tying it off > > > doesn't surprise me. > > > Your 6/0 is a 125 Denier thread which is quite a > > > difference to the 8/0. Try > > > to untwist it before whip-finishing and see if > that > > > helps. It did for me. > > > > > > /Nick > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > > > Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För > > > Anthony Spezio > > > Skickat: den 1 oktober 2006 14:22 > > > Till: [email protected] > > > Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question > > > > > > > > > The BCS before the # is BOGER COLOR SYSTEM. A # > is > > > assigned to a particular color. The 20's are > Green > > > shades,, 40's Yellow shades, 70's Red shades > > > 90's Brown shades and the 100's Dark Colors, > Gray's > > > Blues and Black. > > > Gary Borgers fly pattern recipies are written up > > > using > > > his coloring system numbers as are some other > > > recipes. > > > There is a little booklet with the color charts > on > > > them. You can get one from a flyshop that > carries > > > Gudebrod thread, they are also available on > line. > > > "Borger Color System Guide and Data Record > Booklet" > > > Just for info. > > > Tony > > > > > > --- Chuck Alexander > > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > > > MeddelandeNick: Thanks for the info.. I have > only > > > > three spools and only tried two.. I have a red > > > 6/0 > > > > #BCS85 125 denier a black 8/0 BCS 118(don't > know > > > > the denier on it, but I suspect about 80-90, > but > > > it > > > > tied off OK) The one I had trouble with, as I > was > > > > trying to tie chili peppers with it is a 6/0 > Fire > > > > Orange BCS77 125 denier...It is the one that > gave > > > me trouble.. The > > > > red, like i said is the same weight, but I > haven't > > > tried it. I'm > > > > starting to think that I just made too many > winds > > > on the whip finish.. > > > > Chuck > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: Niclas Runarsson > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 1:16 PM > > > > Subject: RE: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question > > > > > > > > > > > > With a 'G' on the rim of the spool, it > should be > > > > size G polyester thread (250 Denier)... thick > > > > thread. Gel spun thread would make it 'GX 1' > or > > > 'GX > > > > 2' on the rim (and the thread white). > > > > > > > > Gudebrod tying threads are quite generously > > > waxed > > > > compared to most other threads, but personally > > > I've > > > > never found it making them 'slippery'. The > > > > difference I would note is that it makes them > > > easier > > > > to dub, they hold the materials better... and > it > > > > keeps the filaments from coming apart. > > > > > > > > Which size is it you're having the > whip-finish > > > > problem with? > > > > > > > > /Nick > > > > -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- > > > > Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För > Peter > > > Gramp > > > > Skickat: den 30 september 2006 19:54 > > > > Till: [email protected] > > > > Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question > > > > > > > > > > > > Hey, Chuck! What type of thread is it? I > > > know > > > > the brand is Gudebrod, but some of their > products > > > > are 'slipperier' than others. If it is > gel-spun > > > (it > > > > has a G on the rim of the spool), you can take > a > > > > quick pass of a lighter to melt it... but I > almost > > > > always burn some hackle or something - like my > > > > goatee - if doing that.) ;) When you tie the > > > whip > > > > finish, try to do it on bare hook-stem, > continuing > > > > the thread in the same way it was wrapped just > > > > prior. What else... hmm... 6 rotations is > plenty > > > > for even the largest of flies -- one of my > biggest > > > > faults 9at least with tying flies) is a > monstrous > > > > head with a zillion wraps for the whip-finish. > > > The > > > > bulk of the knot keeps it from tightening > fully, > > > so > > > > it then comes loose and the fly starts to > 'un-tie' > > > > itself. It could honestly be any number of > > > things, > > > > but they're the ones I've experienced > firsthand, > > > and > > > > I've seen it often in others, both older tyers > and > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
