Can someone please explain to me EXACTLY what a spline (technical) is and what the diff is when putting the guides on or at 180 degrees to the spline?
Thanks guys and Merry Xmas, R ______________________________________________ Reuven Segal B. Engineering (Aerospace)- Final Year B. Engineering (Manufacturing Systems and Management) RMIT University 5/11 Rockbrook Road, East St. Kilda, 3183 Melbourne, Victoria Australia [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mobile: 0422 266798 -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Neville Gosling Sent: Monday, 25 December 2006 6:02 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [VFB] RE: Spine/Spline Tony: This is a very interesting point and it seems that most rod builders have very different opinions as to where the spine/spline should be located on a rod in relation to the guides. I have always placed my guides either on or directly opposite the spine/spline dependant upon whether I want to concentrate on the casting power or the lifting power of the rod that I am constructing. Other people place the guides at 90 degrees to the spine/spline arguing that is the spot where the rod wants to bend. I know that I have a couple of spinning rods (same make & size)that very definitely tend to cast to the right and when I need an accurate cast, I have to offset my aim a bit left to hit my target. I suspect that it may be the spine/spline that is causing this. I have been casting for 50 plus years and am pretty accurate, so I don't think that it is my casting. Neville (Nev) Gosling Greater Vancouver, B.C. Canada -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Anthony Spezio Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 10:18 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [VFB] Tippet Material Question As Pete says "rod by rod". How true this is. I have posted this before, when you buy a rod, always check for the spine/spline. If it is off the center the rod will not cast right and will want to twist in your hand with a load on it. I don't have time right now to type it all out, if there is an interest, I will do it later. Have to go now. Tony --- Peter Gramp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Glenn: I'd love to have that formula.. I have an > 8ft 2 pc rod, that is a 5 > > wt rod (but, I want a 9ft 4wt rod)and I use a 6wt > weight forward line. I > > do > > like my furled leaders better than I did the > tapered ones I was using, but > > > This alone may cause some of your turn-over > problems, as I've found out by > experience... Even though a rod may say it is rated > 5-6 weight, it may be > better suited for one weight line versus another... > Case in point, my > "Walley World special" rod is 8'6" and supposedly > 5-6wt, but for whatever > reason a DT4F (double-tapered, 4wt floating) line > (generic brand - i think > sci anglers) works best on it. It depends on a > rod-by-rod basis, but in my > personal experience (albeit limited and quite > possibly off), a change in > line weight changes the leader's turnover. I also > found that I wasn't using > a stiff enough butt section on my hand-tied > leaders... the result was a > "wind cast" knot or (worse in my opinion) a sudden > pile-up of leader at my > feet with the line still shooting in a loop on the > water with a resounding > 'plunk!' ;) I guess my point is don't be > discouraged, as it could be > anything, but personally I'd try matching the rod > weight to the line weight > as a start, then tinkering with other factors (the > leader itself), if that > doesn't help. > Again, just my opinion from personal experience, and > I may be completely > wrong on that one. > Tight wraps, > Pete > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
