Hi,

When I do capacitor replacements on Logic or Analog/Power supplies, I always
replace them with identical one's so in the end it's even for a trained eye
hard to see that the capacitors have been replaced at all if you are handy
with the soldering iron.

By using identical capacitors as the old one's, the board keeps it's Vintage
status and a Collector's item.

Regarding the SE/30 logic board: failing or weak sound is the 1st sign of a
failing logic board due to the capacitors.

In my opinion It's not recommended to replace just 1 capacitor ( = the one
for the sound for example )  as the other capacitors are in the same bad
condition. You need to replace them all in order the fully repair the board.
Otherwise it's likely you will end up with other issues a few weeks later. 

The original capacitors are very easy to find with Digikey for example or
good old Ebay for next to nothing. 

I'm working on a website for 68K Vintage Macs where I will list detailed
information how to diagnose and repair logic boards, power supplies, rebuild
powerbook batteries,... with lots of photos on how to do the repairs.

I just need to have sufficient time to document everything so it will
probably for next winter as now in the middle of the summer here it's really
too hot :-(


Good Luck,


Nico

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Namens Sterling Jacobson
Verzonden: vrijdag 7 augustus 2009 6:24
Aan: [email protected]
Onderwerp: RE: Another sound question, Mac SE/30 no speaker sound??


Nice!

Do you have a good place to get the tantalum caps?


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Doug McNutt
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 9:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Another sound question, Mac SE/30 no speaker sound??


At 16:43 -0600 8/6/09, Sterling Jacobson wrote:
>I'm ready to get my hands dirty with Cap replament on my macs.
>
>How do I get started with this?
>

Get thee to tantalum replacement capacitors. Anything that looks like an
aluminum cylinder with two terminals is suspect

For the audio problem I believe C6 is the culprit. It is a 1 microfarad 50
volt unit that's smaller than all of the rest. It's just forward of the
serial ports on the back  There isn't any 50 volts anywhere on the board so
a replacement needs to be 1 microfarad but any voltage greater than 12
should be good enough.

With some magnification and some good lighting you can often see an area
around a capacitor that looks funny. Perhaps you can't quite see the traces
under the green solder mask or perhaps an area reflects a bit differently.
That's acid leaking from those aluminum electrolytic capacitors that work
because the acid reacts with aluminum to produce a thin insulating layer of
Al2O3 which IS the capacitor dielectric.

Someday I'll take some pictures of the operation. I use a small pair of wire
cutting pliers to cut the caps in half and then solder wick and a small iron
to remove the remaining leads fro the board. Replacing with tantalums is
easy. just figure a way to hold them in place as with a small clamp and flow
solder over the contacts.

Wash the leaked acid off first. Hot water gets the acid. A rinse in dry
alcohol gets rid of the water but distilled water rinse followed by a lot of
drying time will do the same thing.
-- 

--> From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit
it. <--



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