First let's correct the nomenclature. The method of sealing the flywheel to the crank was changed (from gasket to O-ring) in mid`66, predating the switch to 12V. So it's more accurate to refer to the components as "non-O-ring" and "O-ring" rather than "6V" and 12V".
The non-O-ring crank (as would be original equipment in your `65) has a short step on the nose; O-ring cranks have a longer one to provide a place for the O-ring inside the flywheel to reside. If you attempt to fit an O-ring 'wheel to a non-O-ring crank, it'll bottom out against this step long before it seats properly against the end of the crank. Simplest solution for your situation is to open up the ID of the O-ring flywheel's outer lip. It needs to be >55mm (2.165") to fit over a standard-size crank. This operation would best be performed on a lathe by a machinist, but it IS possible to do yourself with a die grinder or Dremel-type tool. Cut a disk out of a tin can lid to lay against the dowel-pin surface so you can't nick it if your hand should happen to slip (this is CRITICAL - damage that surface and the gasket won't have a chance of sealing properly). You also don't want to nick the thrust surface, but if you should happen to that's not such a big deal, just sand off any raised burr. Note that the early end-play shims have a larger ID than the late ones intended for the O-ring crank, too. Late shims won't fit over the step on an early crank so this is idiot-proof, I mention it mostly for the benefit of folks setting the endplay on O-ring cranks - they mustn't use the large-ID early shim (even though it will fit) because it will hula-hoop around and slice right into the crankshaft. You may find that you can't get the endplay set to the desired .004", even using three of the thickest shims, since the gasket adds ~.008" (paper) or ~.012" (metal) to the endplay and the O-ring crank was dimensioned so as to not use a gasket. If this is the case, don't fret over it, just use four shims - I promise it will do no harm. Anytime you're changing a flywheel/setting endplay on ANY ACVW, always make sure that there is NO relative motion between the thrust bearing and the case contributing to your reading. If you have this problem and add shim thickness to reduce the measured total endplay, the engine is certain to seize in short order. Have an assistant clunk the crank back & forth from the pulley end while you closely observe the thrust bearing for any motion. Placing your fingertips so they touch both the case and the bearing flange may work better for you than a purely visual inspection. You're probably aware that you'll need a special thickwalled adapter bushing to fit the 12V starter into a 6V trans case. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5765 --- Dan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Howdy all. It has been about 7 or 8 or 10 years but > I'm back on the list. Glad to hear it is still > around. > > I'm in need of some help. I'm converting my '65 bus > from 6v to 12v. The 6v starter is shot and the > trans is already clearanced for a 12v flywheel. I > have both a 6v and 12v 200mm flywheels and a working > 12v starter. My choices are spending $$$ for a new > 6v starter and running the 6v flywheel or using the > working 12v starter I already have and swapping to > the 12v flywheel. There is a step in the mating > area of the 6v flywheel that the 12v flywheel does > not have. Is there a problem running a 12v flywheel > on a 6v crank? > > Thanks in advance, > Dan Kinsey > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
