Hello Greg, Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last thing causing it and the last to attack.
Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with engine warm. You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge readings. Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save the old as a spare. The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the old old. Check spark plug gap and clean. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a different known good coil to eliminate that. A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that like it did for me. Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really rusty...replace. Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps and fittings! Spark plug wires make a difference....put in a new set if they are over 3 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for later trouble shooting. If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the gas getting into the carb. Hope this is start and hope it helps. Bob > Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [email protected] > Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port > > Hello, > > I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem > that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply > accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the > air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I > thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem > continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got > back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started > up ok then when I tried to leave it bucked and jumped and sputtered like > crazy. I ended up calling a flatbed tow truck to come haul it home. I > think it may be the carburetor but I am not sure. The carburetor has > not been overhauled or touched outside of tuning for the past ten > years. The fuel line is less than a year old. The fuel pump is less > than three months old. It has an inline fuel filter that I have it > placed underneath the car away from the engine. The filter looks clear > of debris. Thinking back I remember from time to time it would act like > it was flooded when I would start it. Where would y'all begin to look? > Should I rebuild the carburetor? > > Thank you, > Greg > > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > [email protected] > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119462413/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
