Mike,

Oops.  Thanks for the warning, Mike.  I'd best go easy with the rubber
mallet!  I'm seeing a problem coming since I don't have a welding
capabilitly, but it might be the only way I'm going to get my seats to fit
correctly.  

I fear that Bill's suggestion would have been the best -- ve get too soon
oldt und too late schmardt!  Of course, I don't have my old rails anymore.
And I gave away what little was left of my parts-car carcass.

Arrgh.

Bert


 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 9:08 PM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Poor-fitting seat rails

  I didnt know about the poor fit, but, the cheaper aftermarket seat rail
metal is a thinner guage steel, and would bend away more easily in a
rear-end collision.
  I've also learned not to hammer the seat back on tight tracks; the tubular
seat frames get dented easily, even with a soft-faced mallet.

Mike B.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill May
  To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List' 
  Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Poor-fitting seat rails


  I always weld the original mounts on the aftermarket pans. The reason? The
  seats don't fit the Brazilian rails. 

  -----Original Message-----
  From: [email protected]
  [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bert Knupp
  Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:18 AM
  To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'
  Subject: [vintagvw] Poor-fitting seat rails

  Volks,

  When my local VW fixer welded in new floor pans in my 1970 Type 1, the
pans
  included seat rails.  They seem to be very firmly welded onto the pan.
I'm
  guessing the pans are Brazilian, but there's no evidence.

  But the seats just barely fit -- they'll go on maybe four to five inches
or
  so, then they bind up.  And I can't find where they're binding -- no
scraped
  paint, visible gouging, etc., even where I've used a rubber mallet to
  "persuade" them farther into the rails. (That's only gained me a couple of
  inches -- barely enough to get mny knees under the steering wheel).

  The seats are rebuilt and seemingly in great condition.  The rails are
  nicely lubricated.  Their rail grippers are straight and smooth, and the
  seats worked well on their previous floor (they're both German original).
I
  don't want to start "relieving" my seats with a Dremel grinder or hacksaw
  except as a last resort.

  The inner flanges of the floor rails are 15.25" (387 mm) apart at the
front
  and 15.375" (390.5 mm) apart at the rear.  The seats look as if they
should
  fit throughout that range -- but they don't.  I suspect I'll need my
trusty
  sledge hammer, but I don't want to just begin whacking until something
bends
  -- or breaks.  I need a target measurement.

  QUESTIONS:  Who knows the correct factory measurement for the distance
  between the inner lips of the floor flanges on a 1970 Type 1?  Or the
outer
  dimension, for that matter?  Who has some experience to share before I
start
  any violence?  Is there any "usual problem" that aftermarket floor seat
  rails seem to present, or is it just random poor quality in Brazil?  I
don't
  have a welding rig and would prefer to avoid that route if possible.  But
  even then, I would need the correct dimensions to shoot for.

  I hate when this happens.

  Thanks,

  Bert Knupp in Music City USA
      |__n__
      (_____)º
     (Ô\_|_/Ô)
      ü ° ° ü
  Polizeikäfer '70

  PS - Pictures are posted on my FaceBook album.  The exterior is beginning
to
  look good now.
   

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database 4336 (20090814) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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