Bert,
  This is a common and tough problem to solve.  They are factory-crimped 
'riv-nuts' in square holes.  You can't easily recreate this identical 
arrangement.
Removal will definite mess the area up badly, but luckily it is covered by 
the fender flanges, at least on the outside.
You will have a hard time finding good replacements for them, besides a 
plain nut and washer set-up.
  Some people cut out the sheet-metal, due excessive corrosion and weld in 
repair panels (or parts cut out of donor cars) that have the nuts 
pre-installed.
I'm not aware of any good solution to this problem.  Anyone else?

Mike B.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bert Knupp
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 4:33 PM
To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'
Subject: [vintagvw] Fender bolt removal

Hi, Y'All,

I'm encountering a new problem -- that obviously must be an old problem --
in removing the fenders etc. from the 1972 SuperBeetle I've acquired.  Some
of the squarish captive nuts in the body are torquing loose and spinning
when I try to remove the fender bolts -- no matter how much PB Blaster I've
soaked the bolts with the day before.  I 've tried three different
Vise-Grips on them but nothing will hold them -- they're soft steel that
chews up easily.

A couple of them -- e.g. LF fender -- are concealed under brake-fluid
reservoirs and other hardware so there's no way to get easy access to their
backsides.

If I end up torquing off a captive nut, is there an easy repair nut to
replace it?

Anybody know any good tricks before I end up butchering my sheet metal?  My
fenders and the body are in good shape and I plan to re-use them after
stripping and repainting them.  (I don't weld.)

Thanks,

Bert Knupp

'67 Rustwagen
'70 Copbug
'72 Super Beetle

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