Here is the wire cover <http://www.jbugs.com/product/113863515C.html> that
can help block air




On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 9:14 AM, Bruce Howard <[email protected]>wrote:

> Racer tape won't leave residue and it comes in assorted colors. Sticks
> until you want it to come off. I've taped rust holes in my rockers with it
> to make a more presentable 20-footer.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=racer%27s+tape&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3487279556&ref=pd_sl_y5234ferp_e
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 30, 2013, at 5:34 PM, Gerald Livingston <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> No towels unless you're planning on using so many you can never shower.
>
> I'm in SE Texas and the wind is **COLD** when at commuting speeds.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/40-inch-x-72-inch-movers-blanket-47262.html
>
> And if that doesn't stop it all then break out the duct tape and cover
> leaks from inside the cab. You can use Goo Gone to clean up when the
> sun comes out again.
>
> G2
>
> On Wed, 30 Oct 2013 08:39:53 -0400
> Kyle Davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I appreciate the low budget tips.
> >
> > I am planning on utilizing this one a lot. I need a new front apron,
> > and I figure towels placed appropriately will go a long way to
> > keeping a bit of the cold out.
> >
> > Kyle
> >
> >> On Wednesday, October 30, 2013, Gerald Livingston wrote:
> >>
> >> The heat in a beetle only has to travel about 2 feet to get inside
> >> the cab. My '69 had air leaks all over the place but the heat would
> >> melt anything left on the rear floor and I had the sneakers to
> >> prove it.
> >>
> >> My problem was that I had a bent boot lid. So, all the hair was
> >> burned off the back of my calves but I had to wear HEAVY gloves to
> >> keep my fingers from getting frostbitten from the cold air blowing
> >> through the dash at 75 or 80mph.
> >>
> >> If your boot leaks any air at all then get a couple of heavy moving
> >> blankets to line it during the winter.
> >>
> >> G2
> >>
> >> On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 14:34:53 -0400
> >> Dan Moy <[email protected] <javascript:;>> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Here is my check list:
> >>>
> >>> (1) Make sure that the carburetor risers are clean
> >>> (2) Clean and adjust your choke
> >>> (3) Insure that the temperature control is working (the bellows
> >>> underneath the engine that controls the cooling flaps)
> >>> (4) Use the recommended oil viscosity for winter use
> >>> (5) Check the heater boxes and channels, I have had many bugs and
> >>> when the system is in order the car will keep you warm enough
> >>> where you need to open the window in the winter.
> >>> (6) RainX on the windshield
> >>> (7) New windshield wipers
> >>>
> >>> I will not make oil recommendations other than what I believe some
> >>> experts have already stated as they have done testing regarding
> >>> oil and our air cooled engines and transmissions:
> >>> aircooledtechnology, lnengineering, aircooled.net, lowbudget.com,
> >>> geneberg
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 2:21 PM, Kyle
> >>> <[email protected]<javascript:;>>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I'm in Central Indiana.
> >>>>
> >>>> We're looking at a bad winter here. Usually means at least a
> >>>> week of subzero temperatures.
> >>>>
> >>>> Also, snow and ice aplenty, if the farmers almanac can be
> >>>> trusted.
> >>>>
> >>>> Oh yeah, believe I'm running the stock solex 30 pict 2 carb.
> >>>>
> >>>> Kyle
> >>
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