Stay with the stock crank as they are forged.  I really think as Dan said you 
should deck the case, and if you do so (you are already at the machine shop), I 
would open the case to permit use of 90.5 pistons/cyls.  Great bang for the 
buck and little to no loss in longevity.  If you stay with the stock cam, you 
can use ratio rockers for a nice uptick in hp as well.

Ray



-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Moy <[email protected]>
To: vintagvw <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, Jan 30, 2014 5:51 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Engine "Recipe"


Hey Nick,


A simple update would be to move up in displacement to 1641.  


Hopefully your case does not need to be align bored, unless you know some one 
who does it correctly, there is a lot of debate on this... and have seen enough 
aligned bored cases that have low oil pressure problems.  If you do not have 
low oil pressure I would leave it alone.


I would also make sure that the cylinder landings on case are also decked.


Once you start changing the valve train you will need to change other things.


Dan




On Thu, Jan 30, 2014 at 11:59 AM, stokester <[email protected]> wrote:

I know I've asked this before but cannot find where I think Bill gave me a 
recommendation - I apologize for the repeat question.


I have a 1974 Standard Beetle with the original 1600DP and to my knowledge has 
never been rebuilt.  I want to rebuild it myself for max power and longevity 
without any block machining and able to use the stock carb and my SVDA 
distributor while keeping cost in the reasonable range.


So I'm sure it will need align boring and the heads rebuilt.  What piston, 
cylinder and crank combination(s) would be best and most economical?  I know 
there are lots of combinations and I've looked at aircooled.net and 
GeneBerg.com for info but find it somewhat confusing.


Thanks,


Nick
vwradios.com

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