NQ, I just want to clear the ice off the windscreen, I can take the cold, but I do need to see. :) I would think a propane heater would be easier, and safer, than a gas heater. I actually had a gas heater when I lived in Michigan, but the fuel smell kept me from using it most of the time. I do have two bilge fans but haven't hooked them up. I'll have to think about what I need once I have the car up and running. Getting the stock heating system will be a priority at that time. My '61 (before I traded it for a motorcycle) had better heat with its 'Dirty Air' system.
Dean, P.S. I'm in NY, not PA, so it's even colder than you think, even though Lake Ontario does keep us warm during the first part of the winter. Rochester, NY Home of the Garbage Plate, which is some sort of food. On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 2:12 PM No Quarter <erin.lass...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi Dean and thanks for taking a minute to reply. > > I stumbled across that link last night - the Speeduino it's called which > uses the Arduino platform as an ECU with some help from an add-on board. > I > like the fact that it costs less than megasquirt (MS), but I didn't see as > much support for it online and for a newb, we rest on the shoulders of > giants - aka needing help. Any project you embark on for the first time > is > fraught with fears of the unknown so the more help you get the more > enjoyable it becomes to learn. > > I would also advise you to change to the alternator, but give up on the > idea > of electric heat. If your PA winters are anything like here, you simply > cannot ever get enough BTUs to do any good. One of the best things you > can > do for heat is to figure out a nice way to install bilge pump fans or some > kind of 12VDC dual squirrel cage fans in the back luggage area as intake > fans which will take the air from the passenger compartment and route it > through the firewall to your heater boxes and subsequently back into the > car. The heater boxes have plenty of heat, but the letharic pressure due > to > the siphoning arrangement back on the fan shroud barely gets any of the > heat > into the bug. Use 1 7/8" freeze plugs with hose clamps to block the fan > shroud outputs off and in fact, if you want to focus on better cooling for > your engine, remove the heater outputs and just weld a flat plate over the > hole to help streamline the air going to the cylinders. If your idea of > switching to an alternator is to run electric fans on the input side of > the > heater system, it's justifiable otherwise don't even bother because you'll > be upset at how pathetic 12VDC heaters are. > > The next step would be to locate a Stewart Warner gas heater, rebuild it, > (converting from 6v to 12v is a piece of cake - just wire the pump and fan > in series on a 6V unit), and install that. Those are the only 2 ways to > get > bonafide heat in a bug without going with some kind of auxiliary propane > heater. > > At any rate, if someone wanted to extoll the virtues of the speeduino > system, I'd be all ears as the price certainly is interesting! > > For right now, I'm working on what I need to do in order to convert a Type > 1 > engine over and a future Type 4 project. > > What I'm finding out is that no one makes a center fed manifold for Type > 4s. > When going FI, they just hook linkage to both sides and I don't want that. > It appears that I would need to get some manifolds that are meant for dual > single bbl carburetors and then fabricate an intake system where all I > would > need is one throttle body to control it all. No dual-anythings to have to > sync. On the DRM conversions, it doesn't appear there is room to put a > sizeable intake between the alternator and the shroud like on the Type 1 > engines. So I've already been envisioning running an intake tube over the > top and down and then just doing an updraft setup. It almost sounds like > I'm plumbing for a turbo. :) > > Anyway, that's it for now. Anythink I learn about FI, I will gladly share > here and then Dave can chime in and correct me when I'm wrong thereby > guiding down the FI path. > > NQ > > -- > Visit the VintagVW archives at > http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com > --- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/004a01d51000%24b01d91f0%241601a8c0%40NQHPBOX > . > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- Dean G. Johnson, PhD Scientist Biomedical Engineering University of Rochester Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316 Box 270168 Rochester, NY 14627 dean.john...@rochester.edu Office: 585-273-2156 Mobile: 315-576-5928 -- Visit the VintagVW archives at http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CAOm0kBm02U0%3DzTfxL60MSWbftO%2B93LFnjHKniqev5mC0FaY5Bg%40mail.gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
