I wrote:
> For any kind of combustion using outside air, you would need ventilation > holes much bigger than the entire 1 L space. By that I mean it would only work if the burner and flames were fully exposed to the open air, like a radiant kerosene heater. Or unless you had a fan or pump driving air into it, like a "Mr Heater F270270 MH75KT 75,000 BTU Kerosene Forced Air" (see). That's 22 kW. (You gotta love the name "Mr Heater.") My guess is that a 15 kW flame placed in the middle of the Rossi device would gutter out or smoke like the dickens, even if both sides of the secret compartment were fully open to the air with the flames visible to anyone who glanced inside the tube (visible like the glow from the radiant heater). I am sure that is true at 130 kW. As I said before, with a 15 kW flame, using outside air, you could not fail to notice the light from the flame through the vents. Look at a gas furnace or water heater to see what I mean. By the way, here is a handy on line power-unit converter: http://www.translatorscafe.com/cafe/units-converter/power/calculator/ The one "sanity test" that I wish someone had reported would be to hold your hand some distance above the Rossi device while it is operating. Even though most of the heat was removed by the steam, and even more by the flowing water in the second test, heat transfer is never perfect, and the device must have been radiating quite a bit into the surroundings. As I reported here, in the first test, Dufour held his above the outlet hose and determined that it was much to hot to touch. That's almost as good as holding your hand over the unit itself. The pipe overall could not be too hot to touch with only 400 W input. People have speculated about various ways to fool a temperature sensor by dividing the flow into an inner chamber and an outer chamber of a specially made hose. That might work, but the overall temperature of the hose from the outside would not change. - Jed
