Hi. I guess I'm no longer a lurker. Fascinating. I can't wait to see the video. Just so know how machined the coins into electrodes; I just used a hacksaw and made two cuts into the coin to make a tab, and then bent it up with needle nose pliers. The tab was about 1/8" thick and stood about 1/2" tall. The end result was a little C- shaped electrode. This was a great shape for a ptree dish and alligator clips. Using a ptree, disk the electrodes are far enough apart that you can't mistake the source of heat. Just by touch, its the nickel.
When I switched over to the larger jar size electrolysis of 100ml I took the tab of the coin, and bent it over solid copper wire (from home electrical wiring) and then seal it with clear heat resistant silicon caulk. Just to make clear, the nickel was alway on the + side of the power supply, and is described in wikipedia as the cathode. See the diagram in; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode What I wanted was H+ moving into the metal but now that I think about it, it might be (B4O7)-- moving onto the surface of the coin, and Na2++ moving to the graphite electrode. After running for a period of time, there is a residual charge like a battery when the power supply is removed. Also as a note; I did most of the 100ml (jar) experiments at 12V sub 1amp which I recall performed better. For 100ml I used 3g of Borax.. Also, it might take about a day before the heat shows up, but It never failed. The AC actually worked much faster and really could be co-deposition. I had never thought about that. Best Regards, Chuck
