15 October 2004 - Qalqilia

Patience and perseverance.  Both are tested here.  Plans change constantly 
and it has taken awhile to get used to that fact.  When I expressed my 
frustrations with friends who have been in this part of the world, they all 
said the same thing - let it go, but be persistent.

I took a break and went to Ein Gedi which is a resort on the Dead Sea way 
out in the desert.  The Dead Sea is extremely salty and as a result, no fish 
live in it.  But people can float in it without trying.  The Dead Sea is 
also supposed to have therapeutic powers.  The most therapeutic part for me 
was seeing Jews, Muslims, and tourists enjoy the resort together.

The penpals are now set.  The exchanges are: Grand Isle with Qalqilia, South 
Hero with Bethlehem, and Lawrence Barnes (Burlington) with Ayda refugee camp 
in Bethlehem.  Hopefully, students in Vermont will get their return letters 
within a month.  However, it's Ramadan, now, so schools aren't in session as 
often plus the public schools in the West Bank are on strike.  Things will 
work out, enshallah.

In Qalqilia, the effects of the wall/separation barrier have been 
depressing.  Before the wall was built, farmers had access to their citrus 
trees and Israelis regularly visited the city to trade despite the 
occupation.  Then the wall got built around the city and prevented farmers 
from reaching their fields.  The only Israelis people see now are the army.  
Lots of people have left Qalqilia.  Those who remain face 60% unemployment.

In Bethlehem, the effects of the occupation have also been crippling.  
Things are relatively calm, now, but in 2002, the army imposed curfews on 
the little town.  A curfew here is not the same as in America.  Here, curfew 
means house arrest.  You are not allowed to leave your house unless the army 
says it's okay.  You can't even poke your head out the window otherwise you 
might get shot.  Your chance to get food lasts 2-4 hours every few days.  
Bethlehem endured a bunch of curfews including a 40 day one.  Bethlehem's 
economy is built on tourism and the tourists rarely come here any more.  
It's really sad to see the emptiness and desperate merchants.

On my travels throughout the West Bank, I regularly see Palestinians being 
detained while the Israeli army/police "check" their identification.  I've 
seen long lines of cars waiting to get through checkpoints between West Bank 
cities - no exceptions made for ambulances.  I've seen places where 
construction of the wall has stripped the land of trees (which are rare here 
to begin with) and replaced them with concrete walls, fences, razor wire, 
and pavement.

There are beautiful sights here, too.  Farmers landscape their groves such 
that the trees are on big steps or plateaus.  This is so that what little 
soil there is doesn't erode.  Despite the inhospitable terrain, the trees 
persevere.  I can see why the olive trees are a symbol of the Palestinian 
people.  Despite the inhospitable conditions of living under occupation, 
Palestinians persevere.

Masalaame.
Joe

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