I will have time for this swap, if another gets going again
Jesse
-----Original Message-----
From: Justin Teegarden [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 8:21 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:Waflyfishers Fly Swap Receipes!
Danny;
Lets Get another swap going !! What you say?
Justin
On Thu, 16 Nov 2000 18:35:01 -0700 Danny McMillin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>Hello Flyfishers of Washington State,
>
>I've had several requests for the patterns, etc. for the flies submitted to
>the Waflyfishers Fly Swap.
>
>Below are most of the pattern receipes and tips on how to fish them that
>were sent in along with the flies.
>
>Thanks to fellow lister Justice Teegarden who has posted photos of the
>flies at:
>
>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1341408&a=9980798
>
>If any of the swappers who don't find their pattern receipes listed want
>to, please post to the list. Thanks again to all who participated. It was
>great fun.
>
>Danny McMillin
>=================
>
>Peacock X-Caddis -- Jeff Hale
>
>Hook: #14 dry fly
>Thread: Brown, olive, or any dark color. 6/0 or 8/0
>Trailing shuck: Olive Z-lon, poly-yarn, or substitute
>Rib: Olive or Pearl Krystal Flash or 6X tippet material
>Body: Peacock herl, twisted and wrapped.
>Underwing: Olive elk-hair
>Wing: Cream, tan, or white elk-hair
>
>
>I tie the X-caddis a little different from its original dressing. Craig
>Matthews, the inventor of the X-caddis (which is really an off-shoot of Al
>Troth's Elk-hair caddis), uses a dubbed body and a natural wing. The
>Peacock X-caddis, uses peacock herl for the body. In addition, I use two
>wings, an underwing and an overwing. The olive underwing matches the dark
>wing color of the natural, but the light colored overwing allows me to see
>it easily on the water. Finally, I rib the peacock with Krystal Flash for
>reinforcement and to add some sparkle.
>
>I originally used this fly on Rock Creek in Montana and had great success
>with it. In addition, it has been a great producer on the Yakima. It
>matches the small, dark colored caddis that belong to the order
>Rhyacophila. More specifically, it imitates the species American Granum,
>which is our local, dark caddis we see hatching heavily in the spring (but
>they are around through September). The Peacock X-caddis sits very low in
>the water, and the trailing shuck makes it look like a caddis pupa shedding
>its skin, about to become an adult.
>
>Just fish it as you would most dries. I use a long 5X leader with a down
>and across or upstream presentation. Fish it on a dead drift, then let it
>skate at the end of the drift. At the end of a drift, the fly will pull
>under the water. Many times I've had trout take the fly at this time. I
>believe they are taking it for the fast swimming, emerging pupa. In
>addition, I only use floatant on the wing. I soak the trailing shuck in
>saliva, to get the butt end of the fly to sit under the surface, more
>closely imitating an emerging pupa/adult.
>=====================
>A SIMPLE BAITFISH by Charlie Mastro
>
>When I tie flies I always try to make it simple and easy flies and this is
>my favorite baitfish pattern.
>
>Materials:
>Start with a 6 or 8 salt water hook like a Tiemco 9394, red Krystal Flash,
>pearl Kystral Flash, white and chartreuse bucktail or I like to use
>FisHair because I like the way the color looks in the water.
>
>Recipe:
>Tie the white FisHair on the top of the hook and turn hook over and tie in
>the red gills and cut short.
>Turn hook over and tie in pearl Krystal in front of white FisHair and then
>tie the chartreuse and form the head by wrapping tread and finish off with
>epoxy. If you like paint some eyes on and cover with epoxy.
>
>Fish it:
> I use a intermeate clear sinking line or floating line. I try not
>to wade in the water and cast out 40 feet or so and strip the fly in using
>a varity of motions, some times slow and jerky to look like a wounded
>bait fish or fast like a fleeing fish. A lot of times the fish will take
>the bait near the surface and you get to see the whole thing happen.
>=====================
> Carey Special -- Ray Wallace
>
>Hook- Mustad 3399A or similar
>Thread- Black
>Tail- Krystal Flash (I like Copper)
>Body- Chenille (Red is my favorite)
>Hackle- Pheasant Rump (I like to use the longest hackles)
>The original version used pheasant for the tail and had a tinsel rib.
>
>The Carey is my favorite lake fly. I carry several different colors in
sizes
>#12-#4. I usually have the best luck with a sink tip line. I just
experiment
>with different retrieves until something works.
>============================
>Damsel Nymph -- Tim Colman
>
>Paddle fin: Partridge wing feather
>Abdomen: Clear larva lace colored to match
>Thorax: Three strands of twisted marabou
>Over-wing Three to four strands of marabou
>Eyes: Mono
>Head: Either dubbed or wrapped marabou
>Rib: fine gold wire (optional)
>==========================
>Jumping Jack -- Tom Bolender
>
>Hook: size 6-12 2Xlong Light Wire Dry fly
>tail: antron, darlon or z-lon
>Butt: white floss
>back wing: elk hair
>Hackle: grizzly dry fly
>body: antron, darlon or z-lon
>legs: rubber
>===========================
>Easy Rider foam dry fly -- Danny McMillin
>
>Hook: Orvis #1510 size 14 curved nymph hook
> York bend, straight-eye, 3X-long for stonefly nymphs
> (the 3X-long makes it a size 10 length hook)
>
>thread: color to match foam body
>
>body: Darice Foamies foam 3/32" thick by 3/16" wide
>
>over
>body
>hair: super hair Chartruse/crystal flash green or any flashy hair
>
>under
>wing: white thin open cell foam cut to wing shape
> like the kind used to wrap electronic components
>
>bullet
>head and
>overwing: bleached elk/deer hair
>
>legs: brown multicolored legs from Orvis
>===========================
>Directions for tying:
>
>1) start thread on hook, wind to bend.
>
>2)cut foam into strips approx. 3/16" wide. (I bought red, white, black and
>yellow 9 x 11" sheets of Darice Foamies for 44� a sheet at Walmart.) I trim
>the end of the strip to form the butt of the fly. This hangs off the end of
>the hook. Tie in foam at the bend of the hook leaving an extended butt. I
>leave the strip of foam long and cut to fit after fly body is tied in.
>.
>3)after three wraps over the foam, wind thread forward under the foam
>strip. I now add a drop of Zap-a-gap to hook shank.
>
>4)take 3 wraps over foam to form first balled segment. Again wind thread
>forward under foam strip and add Zap-a-gap. repeat to form several body
>segments stopping short of the eye leaving room for the bullet head. tie
>off and cut excess foam strip (use for next fly).
>
>5)I color the butt segment on the yellow foam Easy Rider with a "true
>green" prismacolor pen. I run a stripe of prismacolor dark brown on the
>top, side and bottom of the foam body. When tying a white body, I leave the
>white foam uncolored so it can be colored to taste on the river.
>
>6)tie in several strands of super hair Chartruse in front of the tied off
>foam and on top of foam body. Trim so it extends a little past the end of
>the hook.
>
>7)tie on pre-shaped underwing of thin open celled foam at same location as
>hair on top of foam body. it should extend over bend of hook same amount as
>super hair. color top and bottom of wing with black or brown prismacolor
>pen. this gives the wing a mottled look.
>
>8)in front of foam, tie in small amount of elk/deer hair, tips facing bend
>of hook, ends extending over eye of hook. measure before tying so elk/deer
>hair overwing will extend back past bend of hook and underwing. I hand
>stack the hair to give a slight uneven profile to finished fly.
>
>take 2 loose wraps of thread around deer hair. pull tightly, keeping hair
>on top half of fly. take several more tight wraps forward to eye. trim tips
>of hair close. wrap thread back to hair tie-in point. pull elk/deer hair
>back toward rear of hook.
>
>9)wrap 3 times around deer hair to form head and over wing.
>
>10)tie in rubber legs madam x style.
>
>11)whip finish.
>====================
>
>I orginally tied this up to immitate the yellow sally stoneflies I've been
>finding on the Snoqualmie River. I like keeping the bullet head somewhat
>sparce and on the top half of the fly. This keeps the fly riding in the
>surface of the water. Tie bushier for faster water.
>
>I found the cutts of the Snoqualmie hitting it dead drift and with
>twitches. One also took in after it sunk and on the swing.
>
>Danny McMillin
>
>
>
>
>
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